Cornish Cross chicks

Transporting chicks

“I haven’t even been out to look at the chicks today,” Mark admitted.  “I’ve just been watching the ducklings.”



As the primary chick caregiver, I had been out to feed, water, and refresh bedding for our Cornish Cross
broilers, but I have to admit that 95% of my attention had also been on
our other fowl.  The sad truth is that Cornish Cross — although
very efficient meat producers — are not very charming birds.  A
friend of mine runs a pastured meat operation, part of which involves
raising Cornish Cross in tractors, and she once confided that she
doesn’t like chickens.  I don’t blame her — the breed is bound to
turn anyone away from poultry.



Chick coop

What’s wrong with Cornish
Cross?  I’d read plenty of condemnation of the breed, but felt I
had to try for myself, so I can’t say I wasn’t warned.  First of
all, the chicks are definitely hot-house flowers.  We got 26 in the
mail ten days ago and have already lost six — one was runty from the
beginning, three succumbed to dampness in the brooder caused by keeping
the ducklings with the chicks (a problem I’ve since corrected), and the
other two just keeled over one at a time when they were about a week
old.  In contrast, I’m used to vigorous chicks of laying breeds,
all of which generally survive to adulthood if they make it past the
three-day recovery-from-hatching period.  While I’m sure I’d have
lower losses if I raised Cornish Cross again without ducklings, I
suspect you simply have to accept that a certain proportion of Cornish
Cross broilers will perish.  (Please do comment with your
survivability numbers if you’ve had any experience!  I’m curious to
know what you can expect if you do everything right.)



Reclining chicks

Scruffy chickAlthough
I try not to let aesthetics sway me when it comes to farm animals, I
also have to admit that Cornish Cross chicks are just plain ugly. 
Yes, they were cute fuzz balls for the first couple of days, but they
quickly started outgrowing their fluff and sporting a paunch that made
them waddle instead of walk.  Even at a very young age, Cornish
Cross eat and poop so much that, despite me refreshing the bedding
daily, the fuzz on their bellies gets scruffy…an issue that’s
exacerbated by the breed’s tendency to lie down to dine in Roman
fashion.  I actually rushed them out of the brooder and into a coop
when the chicks were just shy of two weeks old in an effort to keep the
manure issue to a sustainable level.  (In case you’re curious, the first photo in this post is the chicks being transported to their new home.)



Cornish Cross chicks on pasture

Thrifty Chicken BreedsOn the other hand, at least at this young age, some of the chicks do
seem willing to go out and forage.  Granted, they’re more prone to
get lost (and then to peep pitifully until I send them home) than our
Australorp chicks are, and only perhaps a quarter of the Cornish Cross
flock is willing to leave the feeder at any one time.  But it’s
nice to know at least some greenery will be converted into this year’s
chicken dinners.



Maybe if I’m lucky our
Cornish Cross will outgrow their tendency to drop like flies and we’ll
end up with twenty broilers in the freezer.  On the plus side, this
breed may be ready to eat at six weeks of age, so at least we won’t
have to put up with their issues for too much longer.  I suspect I
won’t repeat the experiment, though — lower feed costs aren’t quite
enough to counteract the high price of buying chicks and the trauma of
pulling dead babies out of the brooder.  Since I’ve trained Mark to
eat the leggier layer broilers, this experiment just consolidates my
gut feeling that Australorps the best meat chicken choice for our farm.

Golden Comet

Golden Comet henIf
you want lots of huge, brown eggs and are willing to buy chicks every
few years to renovate your flock, the Golden Comet should be your top
choice.  This variety is a hybrid between a White Rock female and
a New Hampshire male and is one of the hybrid varieties in which the
males are very easy to tell from the females as soon as they
hatch.  As a result, if you order all female Golden Comet chicks,
you’re nearly guaranteed to receive all females (as opposed to many
other chicken varieties where sexing is a chancy business and you’ll
often end up with a rooster amid your hens.)




 Scientists use the
term “hybrid vigor” to explain the way an offspring
of two different varieties (or even species) may be bigger or stronger
than either parent.  For example, mules are often stronger and
larger than both their horse or donkey parents.  Similarly, Golden
Comets seem to show true hybrid vigor in the egg-laying
department.  The internet notes that Golden Comet hens lay around
300 eggs per year, and I would add that while most chicken varieties
slack off or stop laying completely in the winter, our girls lay
straight through.  We even have some hens who are starting their
fifth year of life and who are still laying (though at a lower rate
than their younger friends.)


Brown eggs

On the other hand, the
one major disadvantage of Golden Comets also
stems from their hybrid nature.  Gardeners among you are probably
aware that there’s no point in saving seeds from hybrid vegetables
since the seeds will sprout into dozens of different kinds of
plants.  Golden Comets are the same way — you’re not going to
get Golden Comet chicks if you breed a Golden Comet hen with a Golden
Comet rooster.  Instead, you just have to buy new chicks every
time you want to expand your flock.



Free ranging Golden Comet

Thrifty Chicken BreedsWe’ve found our Golden
Comets to be good foragers, adept at scratching
in the dirt and very alert to the grubs I toss their way while weeding
the garden.  They’re friendly too, and lie down in a submissive
crouch
when I get too close, making them easy to catch if they end up
somewhere they shouldn’t be.  They enjoy scraps and quickly wolf
down any compost we drop into their tractors.  All in all, unless
you want to be completely self sufficient, Golden Comets are hard to
beat as a backyard egg-layer.  Small surprise that they’re the
most commonly pictured breed in chicken-related articles and blogs.




When you put in your
chick order this spring, don’t forget to order our
automatic chicken waterers to get your birds off to a
healthy start.

Cuckoo marans

Cuckoo marans on pastureCuckoo marans are one of the
new chicken breeds we’re trying out in
2011.  We decided to test the variety since Harvey Ussery uses
cuckoo marans as his mother hens and we want to find a
very
broody/maternal variety
.  Other folks keep
cuckoo marans for their
extremely dark brown (“chocolate”) eggs, because the chickens are a
relatively
rare breed, or because their owners like eating James Bond’s favorite
type of
egg.






Origin

Cuckoo marans chickens
originated in the mid 1800s in the French town
of Marans.  As a result, it’s technically incorrect to refer to “a
cuckoo maran hen” — instead, the name “marans” should always have an
“s” at the end.  The English imported marans and selected for
non-feathered legs, so you can tell whether your marans are of English
stock (like ours) or of French stock by looking for leg feathers. 
(Most American birds are English-type marans.)  Either way, marans
share the European trait of
white (well, pink, really) skin, which makes for a different-looking
carcass than that of traditional American meat breeds.




Marans, FranceMarans were probably
originally bred to be good farmyard birds and are
now considered a dual purpose breed due to their moderate
heaviness. 
According to some sources, a marans type chicken dates back to the
thirteenth century, which presumably means marans were selected for
utility as well as looks.  Cuckoo marans originated in marshland
and they’re supposed to be able to handle damp and wet better than some
other varieties.




Modern cuckoo marans lay
anywhere from 160 to 210 eggs per year, which
is not so hot if you’re raising the chickens just for their eggs. 
(We hope their maternal abilities will make lower egg-laying
worthwhile.)  Although marans are famous for laying “chocolate
eggs”, many individuals lay ordinary brown eggs instead — if shell
color is important to you, be sure to look for a dark-laying strain.




Identification: Cuckoo marans vs.
barred rocks


Barred rock hensCuckoo marans look a lot like
the more common barred rock, but the two
breeds aren’t that tough to distinguish.  In
barred
rocks
, look
for:

  • Barred feathers, meaning
    straight white lines running across the chicken rather than a speckled
    effect.
  • Cuckoo marans cockerelYellow legs

In contrast, cuckoo
marans have:

  • More speckling than
    barring (although the rooster may look nearly barred.)
  • Light pink legs





Sexing cuckoo marans

You can get an idea of
the sex of a cuckoo marans nearly from the day
it hatches.  At the fluff stage, males tend to be light silver
colored while females are almost black.  The males also usually
have a a larger yellow spot on their heads than the females (but this
isn’t as easy to distinguish as it is with dominiques.)



Sexing cuckoo marans chicks

Sexing cuckoo maransOnce your chicks feather out,
sexing becomes simpler.  Female
cuckoo marans are much darker than males, with the white spots on the
feathers being smaller and further apart.  Of course, once your
chickens reach three months old, you should be able to distinguish
males from females of any breed by body size,
comb size, etc.






Behavior

Cuckoo marans pulletsWe raised our cuckoo marans
in the
ragweed
forest
, which means
they were easily able to hide just by walking a
few feet back into the weeds.  Perhaps that’s why they turned out
so skittish and shy, although the trait may be genetic since some
internet sources report similar behavior.  (On the other hand,
other folks say that their cuckoo marans are calm and tame.)




It’s also tough to get a
Thrifty Chicken Breedssolid handle on our cuckoo marans’ foraging
ability.  We processed our cockerels at 12
weeks (at which time they weighed 2.06 pounds) and found that their
feed
to meat conversion rate
was around 5.2.  The
number suggests that
the marans foraged better than our
dark
cornish
last year
but worse than our
black
australorps

To be fair to our marans, though, they didn’t have perfect pasture
conditions
since I kept them in one large pasture during their entire youth rather
than rotating, so they might have had limited access to good food.




I’ve read from several
sources that cuckoo marans exhibit extreme
broodiness, which can be good or bad, depending on whether you want to
raise your own chicks.  Our pullets aren’t old enough to show
off their broodiness yet, so we’ll have to wait until next year to tell
you
whether the reports are true.



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