Dark Cornish broilers

Dark Cornish broiler on pastureI can tell that everyone’s starting to think
about buying chicks for their spring flock because I’ve heard from
several of you wanting more information about our Dark Cornish
experiment last year.  For those of you who weren’t following
along, you can read the highlights:
why
we chose to raise Dark Cornish broilers
and the economics of Dark
Cornish broilers (
$2.51
per pound if slaughtered at 12 weeks
and even
more expensive if slaughtered at 16 weeks
.)  Basically, we
concluded that Dark Cornish don’t forage nearly as well as we’d hoped
and are very expensive to raise, but that the meat is some of the best
chicken we’ve ever eaten.




That said, I thought
you’d like to hear the experience of another backyard chicken keeper
who also tried out Dark Cornish broilers in 2010.  Reg Delorey
wrote:



“I
raised 40.  They took every bit of 20 weeks, some 24 [to reach
broiler size].

“Ample pasture and all the feed they could eat.  They weren’t big
feed eaters (my view).

“Biggest rooster I had was 7.5 pounds, [the rest were] anywhere from 5
to 7.  Hens were very disappointing 3.5 to 4.5.

“They seemed to reach that size at 16 weeks and didn’t seem to get
bigger after that.”



Dark Cornish broilersIn a later email, Reg went on to say that he
kept his broilers in tractors and felt like they were very good
foragers.  “They would rather attack fresh grass and bugs way
before going to feed.”  On the negative side, he was raising
Cornish Crosses in the same tractors as the Dark Cornish and the latter
killed the former.  “Somewhere around 8 weeks, 4 pound Cornish
roosters began killing my 7 and 8 pound meat kings [Cornish crosses].”




Reg concluded:

Thrifty Chicken Breeds

“I
quite like them as hens around the barn, but as you’ve stated as a meat
producing venture it’s really not very productive.  That being
said I really want to cross them with something; I don’t mind the extra
time if I get a 5 pound hen from the cross at 20 weeks.  I’m
actually wondering if you or any of your followers may have suggestions
for a good cross with Cornish hens (besides a pot)….”



I suggested either
crossing the Dark Cornish with a Plymouth Rock to make your own Cornish
Cross, or perhaps breeding them with one of the old timey broiler
varieties like New Hampshire or White Wyandotte.  Any other
feedback to pass back on to Reg?  Any one else have experience
raising Dark Cornish as broilers?



Our homemade chicken
waterer
keeps your
broilers hydrated even on uneven terrain.

Light Sussex chickens

Light Sussex chickensLight Sussex are one of the
new breeds of chickens we experimented with in 2011.  My
conclusion is — they’re very sweet chickens, but not very farm-worthy.






History

Sussex chickens are a
bit like Rhode Island Reds and
Plymouth
Rocks
, but from the
Old World.  They were a common backyard bird in England, and are
supposed to lay about the same number of eggs per year as an
Australorp (250).  Meanwhile, the
chicks are supposed to mature relatively quickly into broilers.




Note all of the
“supposed to”s in that last paragraph.  Unfortunately, Sussex are
now being bred for looks rather than utility, so you can’t expect them
to be either great egg-layers or hefty broilers.  I can’t report
firsthand on egg-laying abilities since ours are just now starting to
lay, but you can read
my
analysis of Sussex as broilers here
.





Sussex chicksBehavior

Our Light Sussex are
extremely tuned in to people.  They follow me around just like my
Golden Comets did, which means they’d make
a great backyard bird…as long as you don’t have a garden.




Unfortunately, our
Sussex are also very inquisitive, and are tough to scare.  They
find every hole in our fence long before the other chickens do, and
always seem to end up in the garden (or outside the front door.) 
While I was able to train the Australorps and
Marans to stay out of the garden by
chasing them away a few times, the Sussex think it’s a game when I run Light Sussex foragingafter them shouting.




Sussex are reputed to be
good foragers, and they do seem to be about on a par with my other
birds…now.  However,
the
motherless chicks I raised couldn’t seem to figure out how to eat grubs
, which makes me wonder a
bit.  (On the other hand, our motherless Australorp chicks also
had a hard time learning to eat Japanese beetles, so there might just
be a learning curve involved.  For those of you who don’t watch
your chickens daily, Japanese beetles and grubs are chicken candy.)






Color

We chose the Light
Sussex because they are supposed to be better layers, but in
retrospect, I think we might have been better off with one of the
darker color variations.  I’ve heard from readers who swear by
Speckled Sussex, and I suspect that this breed might not be such a hawk
magnet as our Light Sussex.  Is it a coincidence that we’ve had
two hawk attacks since we started Sussex in the woodshedraising Light Sussex, but none
before?  (Possibly — although the hawk went after a Sussex the
first time, he was trying to eat an Australorp when I chased him off
the second time.  Yes, the Australorp did survive.)






What
do you think?


Thrifty Chicken BreedsI’d be curious to hear
about your experience with Light Sussex.  If you felt they lived
up to the  hype, where did you get your birds from?  (Ours
came from a private chicken-keeper in Pennsylvania.)



Our chicken waterer keeps the flock healthy with
clean, pure water.

Best winter egg-layers

Laying hensUnlike
many homesteaders, I’m not willing to keep a heritage breed if it
doesn’t pull its weight on my farm, so when egg numbers dwindled this
winter, I started pondering the idea of adding a few hybrids back into
the flock.  I know from experience that
Golden Comets
keep plugging along all winter with barely lowered production, and I’ve
read similar reports about other production strains like Red Sex-links
and White Leghorns.

Henderson’s
Chicken Breed Chart

sticks to heirlooms, but puts a snowflake beside species that are
reported to lay well during cold weather.  Their winter egg-layers
include Buckeye, Chantecler, Delaware, Dominique (aka Dominiker),
Faverolle, Jersey Giant, New Hampshire (aka New Hampshire Red),
Orpington, Plymouth Rock, Rhode Island Red, Sussex, and
Wyandotte.  However, if you pay attention to the number of eggs
along
Nest eggswith
the winter-laying habit, you’ll see that only Rhode Island Reds are
prolific layers year-round as well as being good winter layers,
followed up with Delaware, Faverolle, New Hampshire, and Sussex.


Another thing to
consider if your egg production dwindles in cold weather is being more
hard-nosed about age of your hens.  First-year pullets will
usually lay through the winter without a problem, but after that,
heirloom breeds especially are prone to take a long time off after
molting.  So if you want to
have winter eggs and you’re adamant about sticking to heirloom breeds,
your best option might be to raise new layers each spring early enough
that they’ll be in full lay by fall.


Egg laying

To get an idea for the difference between winter-laying ability of one
year old and two year old hens, take a look at the chart to the left,
showing our flock’s average number of eggs per day last winter (blue)
and this winter (purple).  Despite going into the 2011/2012 winter
with only three Australorps who were old enough to really be laying
well, plus three Marans who started a bit late and mostly stopped, we
still had more eggs than this winter with our larger flock of three
mature Australorps, two mature Cuckoo Marans, one Australorp pullet,
and three Rhode Island Reds.  (As a side note, even though
they were sold
to us as first year pullets
, after perusing their combs
Thrifty Chicken Breedsand the way they mostly stopped laying for the winter, I’m pretty sure
those Rhode Island Reds were actually going into their second year when
we bought them.)  All this despite taking care to ensure
our
flock has everything they need to thrive over the winter
.

In the end, I think I’m
going to hedge my bets by adding a few hybrids to our flock, and also
by keeping my layers for only one year rather than two.  While the
shorter life span means we spend more feed getting new birds up and
running each year, it probably evens out once you figure in all the old
hens who take the winter off but keep eating.  Plus, we’ll have
more delicious
stewing
hens
to eat, which
is a very good thing.