Float test of egg viability

Living egg floats at an angleRemember how you can tell if
an egg is too old to eat with a
float test?  You can use a similar test on day 23 or 24 with eggs that haven’t hatched to make sure the chicks inside are really dead.


The first step is to wait until most of your eggs have hatched.  I like to wait 24 hours after the last chick comes out of the shell, then take a close look at the remaining eggs to make sure none of them has pipped or been cracked.  (You don’t want to do a float test on a pipped egg or the chick will drown.)  This test is mildly traumatic to a chick inside an unpipped egg, so there’s no reason to risk it until you’re getting ready to toss the unhatched eggs.


A "yolker" floats vertically.Now fill a container with water that’s roughly baby bottle temperature — warm enough that you
can barely feel it when touched to the underside of your wrist.  (This is the same temperature water you use when proofing yeast for bread, about 100 degrees Fahrenheit.)  Wait until the water has stopped moving in the container, then take an egg out of the incubator and carefully lower it into the water with a spoon.


If your egg sinks to the bottom, it was probably infertile from the beginning and is definitely
a dud now.  If it floats, take a careful look at the floating pattern.


Does the big end stick up above the water with the narrow end pointing straight down?  Your egg is probably a “yolker” that either was a dud from the beginning or died young.


On the other hand, if your egg floats at more of an angle, almost horizontally, the chick might be alive inside.  (The chick is definitely still alive if the egg starts to move around on its own.)  Carefully take the egg out of the water, wipe it dry, and pop it back in the incubator for another day or two.


In the past, I’ve been guilty of pulling late hatchers out of the incubator prematurely, but with this float test in my arsenal, I suspect my hatch rate will continue to rise.

Orchard pest control with chickens

Oriental fruit moth larvaChickens
can be very destructive in the garden, but if you’re more careful, you
can take advantage of their busy feet and beaks to improve your garden
ecosystem.  A timely application of chickens to the orchard can
kill pest insects without chemicals. 




Plum curculio, codling
moth, and
oriental
fruit moth
are all
orchard pests that have been successfully controlled with
chickens.   These insects overwinter in debris under your
fruit trees, emerging as adults between the time peaches bloom and
apples reach the pink stage (for plum curculio and oriental fruit moth)
and when the last
Peach flowerspetals
fall from the apple blossoms (for codling moth).  If you allow
chickens to scratch around under your fruit trees in early spring
before the adult insects emerge, your flock will eat a large number of
the overwintering insects and cut back on damage to your fruit trees.




If you’ve waited too
long and the adult insects have already emerged, you can still get some
benefit from chickens in the orchard.  Plum curculio is a type of
small beetle that tends to be slow-moving on chilly mornings. 
Head into the orchard and jar the trunks of your trees several times
soon after dawn and the beetles should fall to the ground and into your
hungry chicken beaks.




Another useful time to
let chickens into your orchard occurs as fruits begin to drop from the
tree.  While the good fruits are still hanging on the branches but
pest-ridden fruits are falling to the ground, you can turn chickens (or
other livestock) into the orchard to clean up dropped fruits and lower
insect pressure for next year.  It’s also handy to let your
Chicks grazing in orchardchickens eat any rotten
fruits after you’ve harvested, since these fallen fruits sometimes
harbor diseases as well as pests.




You won’t want to run
your chickens in the orchard 365 days a year since the flock might
overdo their scratching and will likely overfertilize your trees. 
I located our
outdoor
brooder
close to our
oldest peach tree so that our first batch of broilers can scratch
through the mulch, figuring that these three week old birds will work
the ground up in the two weeks left before they get moved to the main
coop.  If all goes as planned, I’ll let our second batch of
broilers visit our next biggest peach tree for a few weeks as
well.  We’ve had serious problems with oriental fruit moths in the
past and are hopeful that chicken feet will mitigate some of the damage.



Our chicken waterer makes it easy to manage
poultry on pasture.  Just fill up a bucket waterer once and
provide clean water for the flock for days on end.

A winter of chickens ranging in the woods

Australorp roosterI finally started the
chickens back
rotating
through their pastures
after a winter spent free
ranging in the woods

The reason was not so much that the grass was getting high (although it
was) as that the garden has reached a point that my blood pressure
rises when I see sneaky chickens there.  Our
temporary
fencing
where the driveway enters our main homestead area is in
Lucy’s way, so she often knocks it down, which lets the chickens amble
right on in.  After about six rounds of chicken herding, I decided
our flock could graze on grass and clover for a while.



Chicken pastureI also figured the woods
could use a break after a winter of endless scratching feet.  The
chickens clearly prefer the woods to the pasture, and would gladly
spend all year there, but from a management perspective, I need to save
that ground for winter.  If I left the flock in the pastures
during the cold weather, they’d scratch up every bit of groundcover and
turn it into a muddy mess, but spread out through the woods, they
merely churn up the leaves and stay healthy and happy.



Chicken focal points

Multi-trunked sycamoreBefore the signs of chicken
feet disappear from the woods, I decided to get an idea of how large of
an area our flock ranged over during the winter months.  The map
above shows the focal points of chicken attention, three of which are
large trees like the one shown here.




I suspect that old trees
of any species build so much humus and fungal growth around their roots
that invertebrates move in like crazy.  Maybe that’s why the base
of every sizeable tree within the chickens’ free range area was
scratched bare.




Overgrown fenceOther favorite spots included
overgrown pasture fences, which form hedge-like zones that made our
flock feel safe, and (once our spring heat wave hit) the shade behind
the barn.  As usual, the chickens remind me that providing optimal
habitat is more about
structure than it is about the
specific plants that make up that structure.  Nobody would plant
Japanese Honeysuckle for their chickens, but the mass of plant growth
attracts lots of worms and keeps hawks away.



Free range chicken perambulations

Here’s my guesstimate of
where our flock of seven chickens roamed for the last five months or
so.  I counted on the creeks to moat them in, but the truth is
that the chickens stayed closer to home than that, rarely straying
further than 100 feet from one of our fences (which mark the boundary
of regular dog and human travels).  Perhaps if I had cut their
rations back further, they would have ranged over more than three
quarters of an acre, but I
Hens grazingwas already feeding them only
about half as much as the
recommended
daily allowance for an adult chicken
.



The chickens are
currently pouting at being locked into their pasture (no matter how
lush), but hopefully they’ll get used to it within a day or two. 
Maybe in five or ten years, the mulberries, persimmons, and other
goodies I’ve planted there will make the pastures as enticing as the
woods.



Our chicken waterer keeps the flock healthy with
POOP-free water.