Terracing a chicken pasture part

Terrace design

All summer and fall,
I’ve been dreaming of turning
the
steep powerline cut pasture
into a useful part of the
farm.  With the garden put to bed, I was finally able to steal
some time to put the first stage into practice.




First, the goals:

  • Prevent chicken-scratching from causing erosion on a steep slope.
  • Provide easy access so we’re able to manage the vegetation.
  • Hold water on what’s otherwise a dry slope so trees won’t need
    irrigation (with the side benefit of helping deal with the overflow of
    water that turns the bottom of the slope into a swamp).



Building a terraceI’m starting with two
terraces, although I suspect I’ll eventually make three or four if
these work out.  First, I stacked a lot of brush (cut out of the
pasture this summer) on the downhill side of where I wanted the terrace
to go, then I carved soil out of the uphill side to toss onto that
raised area.  If I was building a terrace to hold heavy machinery,
I wouldn’t want to put biodegradable wood down there, but my goal is to
keep these terraces in place with root action in the long run, so the
brush just has to hold the slope until the roots get established.




Speaking of roots, I’ve
already planted the berm on the downhill side of the biggest terrace
with comfrey, and plan to seed cover crops (probably oats, then
buckwheat) on the unused flat part of the terrace this spring. 
That way I’ll be able to turn the chickens into this pasture a bit over
the summer without worrying that they’ll scratch bare soil to pieces,
and I’ll also be building much-needed organic matter for the five tiny
American
persimmons
that will eventually spread their roots into this
space.  The trees will be grafted to naturally dwarf Asian
persimmons once the trunks are four feet tall (in a year or two), which
means they’ll stay shrimpy enough not to mess with the powerline
overhead.


Switchback trail

Rather than putting the
terraces directly on grade, I opted to turn them into a switchback
trail, with one gently rising and one gently falling so the two
mostly-flat areas meet at the edge of the pasture.  This is really
just to make it easy for me to access, and may have the unintended
consequence that water runs down the terraces rather than pooling in
them.  I’m hopeful that a few logs laid across the terraces will
hold soil and water in place.



Terracing a hillside

As you can see, the
digging is hard work, so I’m just plugging away an hour or two per
day.  More photos to come, but meanwhile, I’m curious to hear any
feedback on the design.  For example, do you think half-rotted old
trees about ten inches in diameter will hold the uphill side of the
slope if I pound fence posts in behind them at intervals?  (Again,
this is just supposed to last for the first few years, until the plants
I stick between the timbers take root.)  Do you think it’s
realistic to think I can get my terraces vegetated enough to let
chickens graze in here part-time this summer?  I’m very curious to
hear from anyone who’s tried to terrace a chicken pasture.



Our chicken waterer keeps the flock well
hydrated so they can spend their days foraging for food.

Perennials may control weeds along fences

Kill mulching along a fenceline

Honeysuckle on fenceFencelines are a
problem.  If you’re not willing to use herbicides, weeds tend to
grow up along and through them, and if you’ve got vines like Japanese
honeysuckle around, the fence might soon bow down under the weight of
the plant life. 




Even though chickens
like the protected areas behind these “vine hedges”
, I’d rather keep the chaos a
bit controlled.  One hypothesis I have for achieving that control
without too much work is that a vigorous planting right along the
outside edge of a fenceline will keep weeds at bay but will not be
demolished by chicken beaks.  If the plants want to spread, they
can grow into the pasture and be eaten, but some will always stay
protected on the outside.




Newly planted comfreyComfrey and Jerusalem
artichokes seemed like good fits for this fenceline planting, so I kill
mulched about ten feet of fenceline and installed our living weed
barrier.  The comfrey is the
Bocking
4
I ordered from
Coe’s Comfrey a few weeks ago — it came in great shape, three for the
price of two.  I’ve got plenty of my unknown-variety comfrey that
I can spread along other fencelines next year if this experiment works,
and both the Bocking 4 and Jerusalem artichokes should be ready to
divide up in a year or two as well.




Do you have a favorite
way of maintaining fencelines without a lot of work or chemicals?



The Avian Aqua Miser is a POOP-free chicken
waterer that makes chicken-keeping fun.

How to scald a chicken without a scalder

Broiler“How
do y’all scald your chickens for plucking?  Or do you skip that
step?  We always end up doing 2 dozen birds at a time just so as
to avoid heating the water more than once.”


— Lindsey



I’ve helped friends who
raise birds for sale butcher their chickens and turkeys, and it makes
sense at their level to use a scalder (a special piece of machinery
that keeps a tub of water at a constant temperature).  But on the
homestead scale, I think most folks will be best off just heating a pot
of water on the stove for each bird.  It’s low tech, doesn’t waste
all that much water, and keeps the scalding water clean.




(Graphic pictures
below.  The usual warnings apply.)




Scalding a chickenA two gallon pot filled
two-thirds of the way up with water is just barely big enough to scald
a large, heirloom cockerel at three months old, when his dressed weight
comes in around two and a half pounds.  We can generally fit an
old laying hen in this same pot, too, but if you’re raising really
hefty Cornish Cross broilers, you might need to choose the next size up.




As soon as we’re done
scalding and plucking one bird, Mark rinses out the pot and puts it
back on the stove on high while I dress the previous bird’s
carcass.  By the time the next bird is ready for dunking, the
water has reached 145 to 150 degrees (as measured by a meat
thermometer) — perfect for loosening up feathers.




Since the pot is on the
small side, I like to scruff up the feathers of each bird with a wooden
spoon as Mark dunks it to make sure air pockets don’t prevent water
from reaching the skin
Roughing up feathersall around.  Plunging
the chicken up and down also helps ensure thorough scalding.  You
know your bird is ready to pluck when the tough tail and wing feathers
pull out relatively easily.




Having used a scalder,
I’m not so sure our pot method is actually any harder on the small
scale.  Especially with turkeys, a scalder requires frequent
topping off with hot water, and who wants to be the lucky farmer who
gets to turn on the scalder at 5 am so it’ll be ready to do its job at
7?  On the other hand, I do really appreciate our
automated
plucker
— that
seems like the appropriate level of technology for our farm.



Every chicken waterer order comes with an ebook
and video giving tips on butchering chickens on the homestead scale.