Tour of the layer pastures

Laying hens

In my last post, I took
you on a
tour
of the three pastures we use for
our broilers
, so I
thought I’d round it off with a look at the pastures our layers live in
during the warm season.  Our layer flock currently consists of
five hens and a rooster, but we sometimes have upwards of ten birds in
there, and the current layout just barely handles that many chickens.



Grassy pasture

Pasture 3 (1,170 square
feet) is in an area that was reclaimed from the woods a couple of years
before it turned into pasture.  So, unlike all of the pastures I
wrote about previously, this one was already lawnlike and has
maintained its grassy character (except for a path we use twice daily
to walk to the coop).  Although I can leave our layers in here for
a week with no problems, they do run out of the tastiest morsels and
start lazing about most of the time within a couple of days.  I’ll
be slowly
adding
complexity to the pasture
to give our flock more
homegrown food and more fun.



Warre hive

Pasture 4 (aka “the bee
pasture,” 1,040 square feet) is pretty much identical to pasture 3,
except it’s a bit shadier, contains a young Asian persimmon and our bee
hive, and is
L-shaped.  The chickens enjoy
the safety of the hedge-like fences (covered in Japanese honeysuckle),
although I don’t like the invasive plant and know it’s going to pull my
fences down before long.



Forest pasture

Pasture 5 (aka “the
mulberry pasture,” 1,040 square feet) was problematic until this
year.  When I first turned chickens into this area, I didn’t
realize that tall weeds and bushes would shade out the tender
Mulch boxundergrowth,
so I lost most of the existing plants.  And I didn’t realize that
if I seeded grasses and clovers, then let the chickens into the area
the next spring, they’d nibble the seedlings until they were nearly
gone.  The pasture does seem to be slowly turning into a solid sod
this year, although quite a bit of
chickweed turned up there over the
winter (meaning there was lots of bare ground last fall).  I
suspect the plants in pasture 5 will let me down this summer, but
hopefully by next year, the sward will be firm enough to withstand
chicken feet all through the growing season.



Young grass

New grass and cloverPasture 6 (2,080 square feet)
is on sabbatical this summer for the same reason pasture 4 is currently
problematic.  Hopefully letting the pasture have a few extra
months off will give the newly seeded bluegrass and white clover time
to grow, and will make this a premium grazing spot next year.




Like our broiler pasture
situation, our layer pastures are just barely sufficient during most
seasons, but let us down during the height of the summer.  (During
the winter, I turn the chickens into the woods so they don’t ruin my
pastures.)  My primary goals for improving these pastures include:

  • Adding fruiting trees (Asian persimmons and mulberries)
  • Planting comfrey along the fencelines to keep other weeds down
  • Getting a solid sward going in pastures 5 and 6 so there’s no
    more bare ground

I hope this two-post
tour of our pasture situation has been edifying, not boring!  Feel
free to leave questions in the comments if you’re still confused about
anything.



The Avian Aqua Miser is a POOP-free chicken
waterer, now used around the world.

Tour of the broiler pastures

Pasture map“When you are talking about
pasture rotation, how many chickens are involved and what size are the
pastures?



When I started reading
about
pasture
rotation
, those were
some of my first questions too, but I soon learned the answers aren’t
really numerical.  For example, I could tell you that the pasture
in question (#7 on the map) is about a twentieth of an acre and fed 17
chickens for two weeks.  But you couldn’t take that data and
assume that a pasture half that size would feed 17 chickens for one
week, even if you matched up the ages and breeds of the birds. 
(These guys are two months old and thus are about half an adult chicken
in terms of appetite.)  The trouble with such simple math is that
every pasture has a different array of plants in it, and seasons also
drastically change the amount of food available from that
pasture.  Still, I thought it might be fun to take you on a tour
of our pastures, starting with the three pastures our broilers enjoy.




Small pasturePasture 1 is about 490 square
feet and
was
fenced in spring 2010

It has suffered from lots of experiments since it was our first
pasture, initiated before I understood anything about rotation or what
chickens will and won’t eat.  Pasture 1’s biggest problem, though,
is that it’s way too small for a full flock of broilers, so I usually
add
temporary fences
to
turn this area into a thoroughfare through which our flock accesses
grassy parts of the yard.



Chicken on pasture

Delicate swardPasture 2 is about 1,080
square feet and was fenced in spring 2010.  It’s a bit better off
than Pasture 1 because I’d learned a few things in the intervening
months, and because the pasture is big enough to handle 15 to 20
broilers of just about any age for a week without being scratched
bare.  There’s still no real permanent sward on it, though, so the
ground is dominated by chickweed this spring,
just like
pasture 5
, with
patches of other perennials poking through.  The key to managing
this pasture so it can serve us all summer is to be sure to mow it
after moving the flock out so the taller perennials don’t turn woody
and shade out the more tasty, small plants that chickens enjoy.



White pullet

Newly-mown pasturePasture 7 is about 2,100
square feet and is brand new, having come into production only
last
year
.  This is
the pasture I’ve been playing around with all winter, adding terraces
and planting comfrey and trees into.  If anything, I’d say pasture
7 is a bit too big for the broilers to utilize fully in a week,
although they eat through it faster than you might think since the
grazing quality is still very poor.  The area was a mess of brush
until we cleared out the small trees last June, so the tender plants
the chickens enjoy didn’t have the sun to grow until recently. 
The smaller photo above shows what the pasture looks like after the
chickens moved out and Mark ran through with a weed eater to whack back
the tall weeds.



Spillover pasture

Month-old chicksOur broilers tend to do
pretty well in this three-pasture rotation, but it’s really a
four-pasture rotation because I let the flock walk through pasture 1
into two different areas on different weeks.  (One of these
spillover areas is shown in the photo above.)  Once I get all of
the unwanted woody plants out and the wanted perennials in (including a
permanent sward), this area should be sufficient for up to 20 broilers,
although I’d like to eventually add another pasture between pastures 2
and 7 to give everything a bit of breathing room in the summer. 
And I really need a second set of pastures just like this for the
broilers shown above, who are a month old and nearly ready to leave the
brooder.




I’ll give you a tour of
our more grassed pastures (used by our layers) in another post, so stay
tuned!



A chicken waterer at the far end of a pasture
is a fun way to get your flock to spend more time away from the coop.

How to keep your chickens from being eaten

Homestead

I summed up ways
to tell what has been eating your chickens in a previous post
, but many of you have asked
for the followup — how to keep those predators at bay.  Even
though we live in the middle of the woods, we’ve only lost a handful of
chickens, so I figure we’re doing a pretty good job of predator control
(without shooting anything).  Here are our top tips:



LucyGet a good dog.  I’m
pretty sure Lucy does 95% of the predator control on our farm. 
Whenever she hears a sound, she tears off looking for the source. 
Nearly all of our chicken losses have occured recently since her old
bones have kept our faithful dog closer to home.  (You’ll first
have to train
your dog that chickens are to be protected, not eaten
, of course.)

Locate the coop close to your house
Speaking of close to home, you can go a long way toward scaring off
predators by keeping your chickens in an area that you walk through
many times a day.  After some experimentation, we’ve started
locating our chick brooder right outside our back door, after which
relocation we haven’t lost a single chick to predators.

Rooster protects flockInclude a rooster in your flock
If you don’t have neighbors who will complain about the crowing, a
rooster will really pull his weight in chasing away predators. 
One winter while our flock was free ranging, a hawk swooped down and
started tearing at the neck of one of our hens.  The rooster made
such a show and the flock yelled so loudly that I knew something was
going on and had time to chase the hawk away before the hen was injured.

Close the chickens in at night
To be honest, I only do this with our chicks, although I could probably
have prevented our raccoon
incursion
by following suit with the adult hens.  To make this
technique effective, you’ll have to combine it with a campaign to turn
your coop into a predator-proof establishment once the door is
closed.  No, chicken-wire doesn’t cut it, but hardware cloth might
if it’s screwed down tightly.

Include trees
and bushes in the pasture
.  During the day, hawks are our
biggest danger, and these birds of prey usually hunt by circling over
open areas.  Tree cover makes it much tougher for a hawk to notice
your poultry, and bushes give your chickens a spot to hide if they are
in danger.



What extra measures do
you take on your own homestead to keep your layers from turning into
fox dinners?



Our chicken waterer is spill-proof, so it won’t
wet down your coop if the flock mills around for a few hours inside
while you sleep in Sunday morning.