Author: Anna & Mark

How to tell male and female ducks apart

Ducks and comfrey

If you purchase (or
hatch) straight-run chicks or ducklings, one of the things you’ll be
most interested in learning is how to tell the boys from the girls at a
young age.  Back in 2010, I was just learning
to sex young chickens, and now the time has come to do the same with ducks.



I’m assuming in this post that you don’t want to vent-sex your ducks, even though that is
the definitive and official way to sex young poultry of all
sorts.  I’ve never actually vent-sexed a bird, but the process
sounds very traumatic for the youngster, so I generally figure it’s
better to wait until the differences become more obvious.




Duck beak colorWith
waterfowl, the best unintrusive way of telling the drakes (males) from
the ducks (females) is by voice.  When our ducklings reached three
and a half weeks old, I started to notice that their whispery baby
voices were being interrupted by a quack now and then, a sound that only
female ducks can make.  If you want to be certain of the sex of
your waterfowl, wait until they’re eight weeks old, then capture them
one at a time and listen to their alarm calls — the females will quack
and the males will make a different call that’s supposed to sound more
like “wongh.”




Dave Holderread reports
that you can also sex ducks by bill color if the ducks are
purebreeds.  (Hybrids often have bills that are harder to link to
sex of the bird.)  In several breeds, the bill of a male duck is
grayish or greenish from a young age, while the bills of females can be
yellowish with a dark tip or can be dark brown with some orange. 
In most cases, the bills of female ducks are darker than the bills of
drakes by the time the waterfowl reach two months old.




One final method of
sexing ducks is to wait until the birds are four or five months old and
attain their adult plumage.  At this age, drakes generally have
curled tail feathers, and in many breeds, the heads and backs of males
are darker than those of females.

We’re still in the
waiting stage with our duckling-sexing project, so I don’t know how many
ducks and drakes we have in our nine-bird flock.  I plan to keep
all of the ducks and one drake, so the more girls, the better!

Hanging coconut chicken treat update

hanging coconut treat for chickens

The next time I make a hanging
coconut chicken treat
I
think I’ll bake it for a while to make the flesh easier to chunk away.




Having the coconut swing can
be entertaining to watch, but I think it would’ve been better for the
chickens to mount it on the floor so it stayed stationary.




We locked our chickens in the
coop for half a day in an effort to get them to stop trying to roost in
the pasture and that’s when I noticed parts of the coconut had been
eaten away. I’m guessing it was something totally new to them and it
took a taste trailblazer to show the others how yummy it was.

Bringing a new chicken pasture online

Chicken fencing

There’s nothing like a
new pasture to brighten both the chickens’ and my day.  As seems to
be our usual MO, Mark and I didn’t get all of the pastures around the
starplate coop done before we moved chickens in,
so we’re now rushing to build new pastures as we need them. 
Luckily, cattle panels are so easy to erect that I can fence in a pretty
sizable paddock by myself in a couple of hours.  (Mark will have
to come back later and add the gates.)



Trampled rye

I ended up leaving the chickens in our tree alley
for nearly two weeks, which definitely was an imperfect situation from
the birds’ standpoint…but which will hopefully add some much-needed
fertility to this soil.  When I dug swales in this area
last fall, I was glad to see that the ground was well-drained, but the
rye I planted on the bare earth only grew to about half the height of
the rye in our vegetable garden — a sure sign that the pasture needs a
shot in the arm in the fertility department.




From a plant’s point of
view, lack of fertility in new ground like this generally means lack of
nitrogen, and chicken manure is chock full of nitrogen, so letting the
birds spend a little too long here should help the next round of cover
crops (sunflowers and buckwheat) grow better than the rye did.  And
I figure our chickens weren’t suffering too much from lack of fresh
forage since they hadn’t quite pecked every comfrey leaf to bits by the
time I moved them on.



Fresh pasture

This is what the new
pasture looks like — lots of non-grassy plants since the spot was
woodland just last year.  After the chickens graze here for about a
week, we’ll rotate them to a new paddock and Mark will cut everything
pretty low with a weedeater.  We’ve already done that in one
paddock, and grass and clover is starting to take over the ground there
due to the close cutting.  Within a year or two, hopefully the main
paddocks will be a solid sward to provide plenty of greenery for the
flock.



Grazing chickens

The truth is that our
chickens prefer a non-grassy pasture to a grassy one, but only for the
first day or two.  Then a pasture like this starts to provide
diminishing returns, while a grassy pasture keeps feeding the flock for
many more days.  It’s all a tradeoff in the chicken-pasturing world
— their tastebuds vs. pasture health.



(If you want to learn more about our chicken-pasturing method, check out my 99 cent ebook Permaculture Chicken: Pasture Basics.)