Winter hardiness and more of chicken forest pasture trees

Young persimmon tree

I’ve been writing a lot about our starplate pasture, but realized I hadn’t regaled you with an update on our more established series of forest pastures in quite some time.  There’s a lot to say, so in this post I’m going to stick to the trees.



Winter-killed persimmonOne of my experiments has involved adding American persimmons
to three pastures, with the plan of eventually grafting Asian
persimmons onto those native rootstocks to keep the trees small, to
promote early bearing, and to negate the need for separate male and
female trees.  Due to a really cold winter, though, that plan is
looking like less of a good idea.




Why?  Because the
Saijo (Asian) persimmon I planted in fall 2011 died back to the ground
before it ever got old enough to bear fruit.  True, the tree
(pictured to the left) is sprouting back from the base, but I’m pretty
sure what I’m seeing is just rootstock growth.  If one of the most
hardy Asian persimmon varieties isn’t truly hardy in our climate, it
doesn’t make sense to replicate any type of Asian persimmon throughout
our pasture.




How are the seedling
American persimmons doing?  Like the Asian persimmon, some died
back to the base last winter, but most seem to have survived the winter
unscathed (top photo).  Now I’m wondering if careful training could
promote dwarfing in these American persimmons so they fit in their
small pastures without shading out the nearby garden.  I’m not sure
if I really want to wait a decade or two for fruit, though….



Ripening mulberry

Another tree experiment
from the same era involved mulberries.  This tree trial shows much
more promise, although some of my hearsay or book-learning knowledge has
turned out to be not so hot.




I’ll start with the pros
— despite losing a few small branches to the cold, our Illinois
everbearing mulberry is thriving and is loaded with fruit this
year!  Unfortunately, the two other varieties I planted in our
blueberry patch to expand our selection didn’t fare as well.  The
Oscar’s mulberry died back to the base but seems to be resprouting
(above the graft union, I think), but the Silk Hope is fully dead. 
Again, pushing the hardiness zone envelope seems not to be called for
due to recent weather extremes.




Mulberry treeWhat else would I do differently in the future?  I had read that mulberries fruit on first-year wood, so you can pollard
half of the tree each year and get a good crop on one-year wood.  I
forgot to pollard this spring, though, so I currently have a tree with
two-year wood and one-year wood…which is handy since that old-wive’s
tale seems to be wrong.  The two-year-old half of the tree is
covered in berries while the one-year-old half has…none.  Now I’m
thinking that training the tree is a better way of keeping the size
down so that I can reach the berries, or I might just let the tree grow
and pick fruits from near the base while letting the chickens get the
rest.  Unlike the persimmons, this tree is a good distance from the
vegetable garden and won’t do any harm if it achieves the estimated
spread of 20 to 30 feet.




Since Illinois
everbearing mulberries grow fast, survive the winter, and fruit
prolifically, I’ll probably continue my propagation experiments despite
the pollarding failure.  Last year,
I discovered that mulberries don’t root easily from hardwood cuttings,
so I’ll collect some fruits this summer and instead try growing them
from seed.  The jury’s out on whether I’ll graft Illinois
everbearing twigs onto the seedlings in a year or two or whether I’ll
just see if the seedlings produce good fruits.  Stay tuned for more
forest pasture experiments to come!

Ducks love comfrey

Ducks eating comfrey

Chickens seem to take or leave comfrey.  In my experience, the land fowl are usually willing to peck at the high-protein vegetable when they’re about four to six weeks old,
while older birds also enjoy the tender leaves that arise when the
plants are mowed as part of a forest pasture.  Still, I’d never
seen comfrey eaten with such vigor until we tried ducks.




At one month old, our
ducks were in a paddock with a few comfrey plants, and they completely
ignored them.  But two weeks later, in another paddock, the comfrey
plants were demolished down to the ground within days.  It seems
that ducks, like chickens, crave some component of comfrey during that
fast-growing six-week-old period of their lives.  I can’t wait to
see what the ducks will do when turned into one of our forest pastures
with lots of comfrey plants (and other grazing options).  Stay
tuned for another comfrey/duck update soon!

Do you save money by raising your own chicken meat

Homegrown chickenI’m
hesitant to post about the nitty-gritty of our meat-bird experiments
here because I know some of you consider chickens to be pets and are
grossed out by the information.  However, others do
seem to be interested in hearing about what we’ve thought of Cornish
Cross, so please consider this your warning — skip this post if your
chickens have names!




Okay, back to the point.  One of our commenters
mentioned that she likes to raise a batch of Cornish Cross every year
and that she has very low mortality rates since she keeps the birds in
the brooder house for their whole life.  That got me wondering —
if you’re not adding value to your chicken meat by putting the birds on
pasture, are you better off raising your own chickens or purchasing meat
at the grocery store?




Cornish Cross pulletTo
answer this question, I sent Mark to the grocery store to discover how
much whole chickens cost per pound ($1.08), then I did some math to
determine the best-case-scenario price tag for homegrown chickens. 
In my calculations, I assumed that, like us, you aren’t raising enough
birds to get bulk prices on chicks and on feed, that none of your chicks
die, and that you get the industry standard feed-to-meat ratio of
2:1.  I also assume that you slaughter your birds at 6 pounds and
that you’re paying 40 cents per pound for feed (which is what our feed
store is currently charging for chick starter ration).  In that
scenario, you’ll be paying $2.93 per chick and $4.80 for feed per bird,
which comes out to $1.29 per pound for the finished product —
more than you’d be paying for the same meat at the grocery store!



Granted, when you raise
and butcher your own birds at home, you know that there are no additives
beyond what comes in your purchased feed.  And if you stay on top
of keeping the bedding clean and are careful on butchering day, you’re
much less likely to end up with salmonella in your meat than you would
when buying supermarket birds.  So there are some reasons, beyond
price, to raise your own meat chickens even if you do so in confinement.




But you should be aware that there are
big financial savings to be had as well…as long as you pasture your
birds.  You’ll actually be paying more per pound in this scenario
since pastured chickens run around and eat more feed, resulting in a
best-case-scenario price tag of $1.89 per pound for the dressed
bird.  However, since our local pastured farmers are
Cornish Crosscharging
$3.50 per pound for whole, pastured chickens (or $3.25 per pound if you
order three or more birds), you’re still coming out way ahead by
raising your own Cornish Cross on pasture.




As a side note, I estimate that we spend about $2 per pound on the meat from our Australorp broilers,
a figure that includes the savings we get by hatching our own
eggs.  However, it’s very much worth paying the extra 11 cents in
this case since Australorp broilers forage much more, producing meat
that’s
tastier and (I suspect) much more nutritious
That’s the direction we’ll be returning to in later years for our
broilers — we’ve enjoyed experimenting with Cornish Cross, but don’t
plan to do it again soon.

If you want to learn more about how to save money when raising your own chickens for eggs and meat, check out my 99 cent ebook Thrifty Chicken Breeds
Or leave a comment with your own experiences.  I’d love to hear
how others have done with less-mainstream meat breeds like Freedom
Rangers.