Category: Chicken Health

What Makes a Good Automatic Chicken Coop Door?

December 7, 2021 Chicken coops, Chicken Health, Chicken Products, Featured, News, Posts, Poultry fencing 1 Comment

There are a few things to consider when picking out an Automatic Chicken Coop Door. You may have a unique size coop, plans to expand your flock in the future, or simply want to a unique feature on the door. Whatever the case here is an article of things to consider when choosing an Automatic Chicken Coop Door our top rated door to choose from online.

TOP RATED DOORS

Reviews and testimonials can be a great tool when researching online but often times these can be misleading or paid for. Unfortunately for this reason we went online and  purchased more than 21 model Automatic Chicken Coop Doors and made our decisions based on our findings over a one year period of use.

*Best Automatic Chicken Coop Door Models: https://www.automaticchickencoopdoor.com/shop?category=Automatic+Chicken+Doors

*Best Motor + Controllers Combos to Automate Your Current Door: https://www.automaticchickencoopdoor.com/shop?category=Motors

DOOR SIZE

One of the first things you will need to consider when choosing your chicken coop door is the size. The door size will mostly depend on your coop, so you will need to measure it before you get started. Most chicken coops have a 10” x 10” entrance, but some can be as small as 9 inches and as large as 13 inches. If you are building a coop, we recommend a larger size around 11” x 13”.

CLEARANCE

You will also need to measure the space above the door to ensure enough clearance to install the mechanism that will raise the door. If your entrance is 12 inches high, you will need at least 12 additional inches above the hole for the door to lift out of the way. You will also need another few inches for the motor. The more space you have, the more choices. If you don’t have enough space above the door, you may need to look for a brand that opens sideways.

CONTROLLER

You may decide the best means for your coop door is remote control, timer operations, wifi, solar eye, manual operation switch. In either case you should be aware of solar eye doors. These are generally a cheaper design and can cause the door to close early on the chickens locking them outside the coop leaving them vulnerable to predators. Timer, remote control, and wifi controllers are the safest means for chicken coop doors.

Timers allow you to set an exact time that the door will open and close regardless of how high the sun is. Timers help keep your chickens safer by opening the door a little later than a light sensor when there is a better chance the predators are gone.

AUTOMATIC DOOR TYPE

Most of the devices on this list are the type that uses a strong motor to pull a thick string that raises and lowers the door. The door is in a track on either side, so it stays in position as it opens and closes. Other types might use hydraulics or gears to move the door. These designs can be dangerous as they force the door shut which can cause injury to chickens if they stay underneath them. For this reason a door with a lift string is highly recommended to lift and lower the door with a lift string and gravity fed so there will never be injury to your flock. The type you choose is a personal preference, but we recommend the string because if it breaks, it’s easy to fix, and this type is usually less expensive and easier to install.

CONCLUSION

When choosing your next automatic chicken coop door, we highly recommend our pick for the best overall. The Premium Timer Operated Automatic Chicken Coop Door is easy to install and operate. It has timer capability and the timer can easily be unplugged or replaced if another controller is desired at a later time, so you can use whatever is more convenient. It has a large door and uses durable materials. Another smart choice is our pick for the best value, the Metal Timer Operated Automatic Chicken Coop Door It has durable design and a large door, and it’s easy to set up and customizable for your coops needs.

We hope you have enjoyed reading over these reviews and have found a few models you haven’t heard of before. If we have helped you keep your chicken coop safer, please share this on Facebook and Twitter.

Article Prepared by Jeremy Smith with Free Range, Inc.

Over 30 years experience in free range poultry farming.

Chicken Safety

December 6, 2021 Chicken coops, Chicken doors, Chicken Health, Chicken Products, Posts No Comments

Protecting Your Chickens

Building a coop offers chickens a sheltered place to hide out from the harsh elements like rain, snow, heat and cold. A well built coop will also protect them from predators and ensure them healthy, comfortable life. In addition they will produce quality eggs in return.

There are a number of things that lurk in the shadows waiting for the chance to get your chickens…

Dogs, cats, raccoons, opossums, skunks, mink, fox, coyotes, hawks, owls, neighborhood children etc. You name it they will kill your chickens!

A safe coop is a necessity for anyone raising chickens, and fortunately there are many different chicken coop designs available. Materials such as PVC pipes, tarps, converted old campers, have all actually been used material for chicken coops, however well constructed wood sheeted coop is the safest and most common way for building chicken coops.

However before purchasing a chicken coop kit, keep in mind the size of the coop run and number of chickens the coop will host. Each chicken needs at least 2 sq feet of space and larger breeds of poultry may need at least 4 to 5 sq feet of space. New lumber can be expensive to purchase, depending on the size of the coop: some second hand stores actually sell used lumber that works just as good!

Although it is relatively simple to build a coop to keep chickens in from scratch, many people simply don’t have the carpentry skills and prefer to purchase chicken coop kits instead. Most chicken coop kits come with all the necessary materials required for constructing the perfect home in which their hens will be safe.

  • A safe coop should be entirely enclosed leaving no opportunities for crafty critters to find a way in.
  • It also should include well ventilation in the summer and be well insulated in the winter. (These areas should be reinforced with chicken wire fencing to keep anyone from scratching through them)

If you desire to have a fenced in area for your chicken the most cost effective way to do this is to construct a chain link fence around the designated area for your chickens (chicken wire or netting may be equally as economical).

1. After constructing the fence wrap it in chicken wire to keep smaller critter like mink, weasels, and cats from getting through it. Mink only need a small hole of

2 inches in order to get through.

3. Also to protect from things climbing over and birds of prey, wrap the chicken wire fencing over the top so nothing can climb/fly over.

4. Finally, dig a one foot trench around the base of the chain link fence and tie you chicken wire to it allowing it to drop down into the trench. Now simply reapply the dirt and burry the fencing.

 

Finally an Automatic Chicken Coop Door can greatly improve your chance of avoiding a predator getting into your chicken coop. The majority of chicken attacks happen in the evening as most predators to chicken are nocturnal hunters. If you are new to chicken keeping you soon will realize the struggle of rushing home from work or from dinner with friends to be sure the chicken coop door gets closed before a local predator pops in for a snack. You number one defense against these attacks and fatalities are to automated the opening and closing of your chicken coop door. As an added bonus to a door closing automatically when your not home it will also open back up the following morning to let the chickens back outside. This gives both you and the chickens the freedom you want. This makes chicken keeping less of an obligation while also keeping the “girls” safe.
Taking these proper precautions will help your chickens to have a safe place to enjoy the outside but still remaining safely out of reach of predators so you can rest easily.
By Jeremy Smith

BABY CHICK CARE & FEED

March 6, 2019 Chicken breeds, Chicken coops, Chicken feed, Chicken Health, Chicks, Ducks No Comments

BABY CHICK CARE 

WATER:  The majority of baby chick fatality is because the chick does not start to drink right away.  Water is more important than feed on the first day.  Never let them run out of water.  For the first 24 hours, add 1 tablespoon of molasses/gallon of water (sugar water). On the 2nd day add vitamins-electrolytes to water. One gallon waterer is adequate for 50 chicks. Even if its self-filling there MUST be 1 waterer per 50 birds to prevent overcrowding. If you choose to use apple cider vinegar, it is very important not to use more than 1 teaspoon per quart of water and do not use a metal waterer with it as the acid will corrode the metal causing it to leach into the water.

*Ducks may swim in water after 4 weeks.  Attempt to keep them dry until then.

FEED:

*One-foot minimum feeder/waterer space per 25 chicks to prevent over-crowding.

Chicks:  Purina program

0-18 weeks: Flockraiser 20% until harvesting or until 18 weeks for layers.  Flockraiser is available with medication or without medication.  If using medicated, we recommend that it is used for the first 2-3 weeks.  Chicks need to be taken off medicated feed within 2 weeks of harvesting.

After 18 weeks:  Layena

Broiler Chicks:  Prince program

0-4 weeks:  Prince Broiler Starter 25% Non med.

4 weeks to finish:  Broiler Finisher 20% Non med.

Layer Chicks:  Prince program

0-10 weeks:  Prince Chick Starter 20%

10-18 weeks:  Prince Pullet Grower 17%

18 weeks-life:  Prince Layer

Organic Broiler Chick Program

0-5 weeks:  21% Organic Chick Starter/Grower

5 weeks–finish:  19% Organic Chick Starter

Organic Layer Chick Program

0-5 weeks:  19% Organic Chick Starter

5-18 weeks:  16% Organic Chick Grower

18 weeks:  Organic Layer

Turkeys:  Prince program

0-8 weeks:  28% Turkey Starter (med or nonmed)

8 – life:  18% All Flock mini pellet

Ducks or Geese:  Purina program

0-18 weeks:  Flockraiser non-medicated

18 weeks – life:  Duck grower or Layena

Pheasant or Quail: 

0-6 weeks:  28% Prince Turkey Starter (non-med)

6 weeks-life: 24% Prince Gamebird Grower or Purina non medicated 20% Flockraiser

Guineas: 

0-6 weeks:  28% Prince Turkey Starter (med or non-med)

6 weeks-life: 24% Prince Gamebird Grower or Purina non medicated 20% Flockraiser

 

HEAT:  Use a heat lamp in a draft-free area.  Place heat lamp approximately 20” above chicks.  Baby chicks need a temperature of 95 degrees.  Please use a thermometer to be sure you have them at the correct temperature.  You will lose chicks if they are too hot or too cold.  If they huddle together, they are too cold.  If they huddle in corners, they are too hot.  Reduce 5 degrees each week to a minimum of 65 degrees.

BEDDING:  Straw or Large Flake wood shavings are the best choice for chickens and turkeys.  Allow approximately ½ square foot per chick, and 1 ½ square feet per adult.  Straw is the best choice for ducks and geese.

Space Requirements for the Home Flock

*A 10’ X 10’ brooder house is adequate until 8 weeks of age.

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