Author: Anna & Mark

Deep bedding materials for chickens

Deep beddingLong winter days means the
chickens spend a lot more time resting (and pooping) on their
roosts.  As a result, I refresh the
deep
bedding
more often,
a task that is as simple as opening a bag of autumn leaves my mother
kindly collected from her suburban curb, then scattering the high
carbon bedding on top of the manure.




As you can see from the
photo, when I run low on autumn leaves, I sometimes use storebought
straw, although straw isn’t quite as high in carbon and thus doesn’t
use up as much manure.  In his amazing new book
The
Small-Scale Poultry Flock
, Harvey Ussery recommends
using any kind of high carbon bedding that’s cheap and easy for the
chickens to scratch through.  His coops are bedded with oak leaves
but Ussery also recommends kiln-dried wood shavings, wood chips, and
sawdust.




From my own experience,
I highly recommend stockpiling your bedding right beside the chicken
coop.  We’ve yet to get our act together, so manure often builds
up on the coop floor before I get around to hunting down some fresh
bedding to add on top.  In the winter, a bit of exposed manure
isn’t such a big deal, but in the summer the manure stinks and draws
flies while letting some of the precious nitrogen escape into the
air.  Remember — a properly  managed chicken coop should be
a pleasant environment for both you and your birds!



Our chicken waterer completes the anti-POOP
campaign, keeping manure out of your birds’ drinking water.

What killed my chicken

MinkThe chicken keeper’s worst nightmare is unfortunately common. You head out to the coop to feed your hens…and instead walk into a battleground of dismembered chickens. Although you may simply want to crawl into a hole and cry at the time, it’s worth taking a few minutes to determine what kind of predator killed your chickens so you can prevent further attacks.


The key (and descriptions) below are based on a
factsheet from the Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service
.  To read the key, start at the top and answer each question, skipping ahead as ordered until you find your answer.  For example, if one bird is missing but you see feathers in the coop, you’d start at question 1, skip ahead to 5, and settle on a fox or coyote as your culprit.

1. Were the birds killed or missing?

  • Dead birds visible……………………………………………………………….go to 2
  • One or more birds missing……………………………………………………go to 5

2. How may birds were killed?

  • Several……………………………………………………………………………….go to 3
  • One or two killed…………………………………………………………………go to 4

3. How were several birds killed?

  • Mauled but not eaten…………………………………………………………….Dogs
  • Killed by small bites on body, neatly piled, some heads eaten…….Mink or Weasel
  • Heads and crops eaten on several birds……………………………………Raccoon

4. How were one or two birds killed?

  • Birds mauled, abdomen eaten………………………………………………..Opossum
  • Deep marks on head and neck, some eaten……………………………..Owl
  • Chicks killed and abdomen eaten; lingering scent…………………….Skunk
  • Young chicks dead on floor of coop………………………………………Rat

5. How many birds are missing?

  • One bird is missing but feathers remain…………………………………..Fox or Coyote
  • Several birds are missing without a trace…………………………………Human
  • One or two chicks are missing without a trace………………………….Rat

 

Dogs. A dog usually kills chickens for the sport.  Several dead birds with much mauling of the carcasses is usually evidence of a dog. Dogs usually visit the chicken pen during daylight hours rather than at night.

Mink and Weasel. Birds usually show signs of attack on the sides of the head if a mink
or weasel has visited the poultry house. With these predators, several birds will probably be killed and piled neatly together. The back of the head and neck are frequently the only parts of the carcass consumed.


Raccoon.  If a predator visits only once each 5 to 7 days and eats the head and the crop of the dead birds, a raccoon is probably responsible. Sometimes more than one bird will be killed at each visit.

Fox

Opossum. The opossum generally attacks only one bird at each visit. Usually, the bird’s abdomen has been eaten. Eggs may also be the object of the opossum’s raid on the chicken house.

Owl. The only likely culprit here is the great horned owl, which does sometimes attack poultry. One or two birds are usually killed, with the talons being used to pierce the brain.  The owl wil usually eat only the head and neck. Feathers found on a fence post near the chicken house or pen may provide an additional clue.

Fox and Coyote. The old sayings about the sly fox were not by accident. The fox and the coyote are very smart and difficult to catch in the act of raiding the flock. Since birds are frequently carried away with little evidence left behind, the only way of determining losses may be a head count.  Visits from these predators will usually be very early in the morning.  Keeping birds in a secure pen or poultry house until late morning is good insurance against losses from a fox or coyote.

Skunks. Skunks do not usually attack adult birds. They may kill a few chicks and eat the abdomen.  Eggs may also be the targest.  If skunks have been in the poultry house, the odor is usually a clue.

Humans. Unfortunately, there can be problems from people as well as animals. If birds are
missing with very little evidence, particularly from a predator proof pen or house, the possiblity of humans being involved should not be overlooked.

Designing a chicken coop

Chickens on pasture

Small chicken coopChicken coops are easier to
design than
chicken
tractors
because
you
don’t have to worry about mobility.  If you live on an established
farm, chances are there’s already a shed, outbuilding, or corner of
your barn that could be turned into a coop without much effort. 
I’ve even heard of suburbanites who build a coop in the corner of their
garage.





If you’re starting from scratch with storebought materials, I recommend
using basic “stick house” construction practices.  Walls are
framed one at a time using two by fours — one on each side and then
interior two by fours every two feet or so for stability.  Add
plywood on one side of the wall to close up the space, then screw the
walls together to make a box.  The roof begins with two by four or
two by six rafters, topped with plywood and then some sort of roofing
material.  You can make a lot of mistakes on your chicken coop and
then be a pro when the time comes to put an addition on your house!



Ramshackle chicken coop

We’re skinflints, so our
chicken coops are cobbled together out of old
lumber, pallets, doors, tin, and even cardboard.  The supplies
cost next to nothing, and luckily we have no neighbors to complain.




What does your chicken
coop look like?  If you email your photos to
info@avianaquamiser.com, I’ll add them to this post
so you an show off your building skills.



Our chicken waterer makes care of the flock so
easy you’ll have plenty of time to watch your hens’ antics.