Author: Anna & Mark

How to make a fast cheap chicken coop

High rise chicken coopWe’re pawning off our
problematic Light
Sussex
on my brother, so it seemed only fair to come over and help
him build a chicken coop.  We threw it together in two and a half
hours and the only storebought materials were about $20 worth of
hinges, screws, and brackets.  Although you’re highly unlikely to
have the same found materials on hand, I thought you might enjoy seeing
the process.




The trick to building
well with scrap is to spend a few weeks pondering before you
start.  Joey had his coop all planned out before we even got
there.  He lives back in the woods where there are probably plenty
of predators, and he didn’t want to have to shut the chickens in every
night, so he envisioned a high rise chicken coop a bit like the ones
he’d seen in Central America.  The chickens will walk up a long
ramp and enter through the top of the coop.



Using two doors as the structural integrity of a chicken coop

Top carrier becomes roofJoey had found two solid wood
doors, which he planned to use as the main structural elements. 
Mark suggested working up against a tree since the support makes it
easy to build ramshackle coops by yourself.  Within minutes, we
had nearly half of the coop in place.




Next, Joey took apart an
old car top carrier to turn into the roof.  The parts unbolted
easily, so if Joey wants to go on a trip, he can just remove the roof
from his coop and put the cargo carrier back together.  (He’d
better hope for sunny weather, though, for the chickens’ sake.)




(You may be noticing a
theme here — Joey and Mark did the work while Daddy and I stood
around and looked pretty.)



Sawing by hand

We needed a support to
form the corner across from the doors, so Joey cut an old two by four
to size.  He lives in an off-grid,
underground house
, so he did all the sawing by  hand. 
Mark and I are less hardy, so we brought a power drill to make
fastening faster.



Adding an egg access hatch

Coop with perchesThe other materials Joey had
in abundance were old cabinet doors.  They just happened to be the
same length as the bigger doors were wide, which made it easy to use
the cabinet doors to fill in the other two walls.  We hinged three
of the pieces to make access doors — one in the front at the top for
the chickens to go in and two on the side to make an extra large egg
access hatch.  (You can’t see it, but there’s a nest box inside
behind the darkest cabinet door.)




Before we closed the
coop in too much, we also added perches.  Joey had an old mop
handle which he cut in half to make two corner perches.  (You can
barely see them in the photo to the left.)  Then, just below the
top access door, we added a longer perch made out of two by
fours.  The idea is that the chickens come up the ramp, walk onto
that perch, then hop down to the nest box using the corner perches as
aids.



Cheap chicken coop

Here’s the nearly
finished coop.  Joey’s going to add a few more hinges on the
various access doors (we only brought three hinges) and some smaller
boards to the ramp to give the flock better flooting.  I’m looking
forward to seeing whether our Sussex are bright enough to make this
inventive coop work.




We’ll send Joey home
with three hens, a rooster, and an automatic chicken waterer to make daily
care a breeze.  He’ll just have to supply deep
bedding
material and some chicken feed.

How to feed mangels to chickens

Harvesting mangelsWriting
about mangels as chicken feed seems to be a popular sport.  I wish
I could find more reports on whether the birds actually
eat
these huge fodder beets.



My experience with
feeding tough, raw vegetables to chickens is a bit spotty.  If I
cut a winter squash in half and make sure it lands flesh side up, the
chickens do peck away at it, and they eventually seem to find thickly
sliced sweet potatoes as well.  I’ve yet to see them eat carrots I
toss in the coop, though.




Chicken pecked squashOne option for making root
crops more enticing would be to cut up mangels, potatoes, and other
homegrown fodder vegetables, then toss them in a pot of water on top of
the wood stove when I damp it down for the night.  Possibly they
would cook (rather than burn), and I’m positive our chickens would eat
any of these foods when softened by heat.




Another recommendation I
read involves grating mangels before feeding them to chickens. 
Maybe if you have some kind of grain mill or large food processor, that
technique would work, but I know for a fact I wouldn’t manage to feed
many mangels if I grated them by hand.  (I’m not so sure I’d even
get around to cooking them.)




Mounting root vegetables on a board may help chickens eat them raw and whole.A third option I ran across
consists of mounting a spike on the side of the chicken coop and
impaling tough vegetables on it.  The sweet potato (or mangel) is
held off the ground, so it catches the flock’s eye and doesn’t roll
away as they peck at it.  This method sounds right up my alley, so
I’m experimenting now with a sweet potato.  I’ll let you know
whether the tasty root goes down my chickens’ gullets in a timely
manner.



Our chicken waterer solves the problem of clean
water so you can focus on homegrown feed.

How to choose eggs for the incubator

Storing hatching eggsLast
year, we had to
buy
hatching eggs
, so I
wasn’t able to be choosy.
But now that I’m saving my own, it’s much easier to select the
best eggs to go in the incubator.

You should have already
thought about the parent birds before you start gathering eggs.
Remember, eggs from hens more than two years old don’t hatch well, nor
do eggs from pullets who are just starting to lay.  Of course, you
have to keep one rooster for every twelve hens, and both parents should
be in prime health, having been allowed to eat fresh greenery and
invertebrates for at least a couple of weeks.  The graph below
shows how hatch rate varies due to time of year, but keep in mind that
you can get much better hatch rates than this.


Hatch rate by monthI collect eggs at least twice
a day when saving them for hatching, and refresh nest box straw before
I start so that eggs are less likely to get dirty.  After
collecting eggs, I set them pointed side down in a tilted egg carton,
and swap the egg carton’s orientation twice a day so that the yolks
don’t stick to the shell.  Each time I add an egg, I pencil a
number on the blunt side of the shell and note down the date on my
incubation spreadsheet.

Once I’ve saved up
enough eggs to fill my incubator plus some, it’s time to discard eggs
that are less likely to hatch.  First step is to look at the size
and remove abnormally large or small eggs.  Some chicken breeds
naturally lay larger or smaller eggs, which is fine — you’re trying
to take out eggs that are bigger or littler than that breed normally
lays.


Porous egg vs. good egg

Next I discard porous
eggs.  Once you get an eye for it, you can tell that the shell of
an egg is a bit thin by noticing very slight grey blotches scattered
across its surface.  If in doubt, hold an egg up to a bright light
— good eggs will be a solid color while porous eggs will be blotchy.

Finally, it’s time to
remove dirty eggs.  If you’re gathering eggs during mud season the
way I was, a lot of the shells may have small smears of dirt.  In
a perfect world, you’d only incubate pristine eggs, but a bit of mud
isn’t nearly as problematic as manure.  (Do remove any
manure-tainted eggs from the incubator.)  You can gently sand off
mud, wash the eggs with a special egg wash solution
, or ignore the
problem.  Whatever you do, don’t wash eggs in plain water since
you’ll remove the protective bloom from the surface and make the embryo
inside less likely to survive.


Choosing incubator eggsI gathered 23 eggs over the
course of seven days, but ended up deciding that seven were too small,
too porous, or too dirty to add to the incubator.  Even though the
discard eggs have been sitting out for a week, they’re still fine to
eat — mine went into a
butternut
squash pie
.  I
figure another day or two will fill my incubator tray and get me ready
for an early March hatch.