Hay for chickens

Chicken on a pile of hayI
snagged this photo from
Gene
Logsdon’s blog
,
where he was talking about a pile of hay that he accidentally left in
his shed rather than forking it into the hay loft.  He wrote: “The
chickens loved to scratch merrily away in the hay, eating green
bits of clover leaves and grass seeds out of it. With the ground frozen
and covered with snow, they can’t forage in the woods, so they are
supplementing the whole wheat and corn I feed them by eating the
haystack.”




I’ve been
giving our chickens autumn leaves and straw as bedding
, but now that Logsdon
mentions it, I can see how hay would be a better choice.  The
chickens would have more to pick at when the snow covers their usual
stomping grounds, and around here hay is cheaper to come by than straw
(even though the latter is a waste product elsewhere.)  More than
ever, this makes me think that I need to learn to use a scythe so that
I can make hay myself on a small scale.



Our homemade chicken
waterer
is a perfect
addition to the healthy chicken flock’s home.

Experimental beans and seeds for chickens

SunjflowerSeed
ordering season is upon us, so I figure it’s time to put some thought
into planning out our chicken pasture plantings as well.  I summed
up the
conclusions
from my experiments with growing grains last year
on my homesteading blog —
clearly, the easiest grain for us to grow is amaranth, and I’d like to
also try out field corn and pearl millet in the summer and rye next
winter.  But I want to put most of my energy into trying out
higher
protein seeds
since
the best laying pellets are at least 16% protein.  Here are some
of the experimental crops I plan to grow in the high protein category:

  • Sunflower seeds aren’t really
    experimental since we had great luck with them last year in the
    garden.  At about 26% protein, the seeds are very good for our
    flock (although I have to be aware that they are also high in phytic
    acid), and I learned this year that our chickens love them.
  • Cowpeas (Vigna savi) caught my eye since
    they are one of the legumes with the lowest concentration of problematic
    phytic acid
    .  Cowpeas also go by the name of black-eyed peas
    when being fed to people rather than livestock.  Unfortunately,
    they’re pretty low on protein for a legume, being only about 13%
    protein by dry weight.
  • Field peas (Vigna sativum) are 21% protein by
    dry weight, but are high in phytic acid.  Since field peas can be
    planted in spring long before the frost-free date, they’ll allow us to
    get more out of the pasture paddocks by planting an extra crop per year.

I plan for 2011 to be a
test year, working the kinks out of our chicken feed growing system and
helping me figure out which crops are best to grow.  By 2012, I’m
hopeful that homegrown feed will be a higher percentage of our
chickens’ diet.



Our homemade chicken
waterer
is a great
complement to a healthy diet — clean water to go with good food.

Phytic acid in chicken feed

Phytic acidI’m thinking about feeding
our chickens more homegrown seeds this year, so I decided I’d better
look into the one safety issue — phytic acid (aka phytates). 
The
Weston
Price Foundation

sums up the issue in a nutshell:



Phytic acid
is present in beans, seeds, nuts, grains—especially in the bran or
outer hull; phytates
are also found in tubers, and trace amounts occur in certain fruits and
vegetables like berries and green beans. Up to 80 percent of the
phosphorus—a vital mineral for bones and health—present in grains is
locked into an unusable form as phytate. When a diet including more than
small amounts of phytate is consumed, the body will bind
calcium to phytic
acid and form insoluble phytate
complexes. The net result is you lose calcium, and don’t absorb
phosphorus. Further, research suggests that we will absorb
approximately 20 percent more zinc and 60 percent magnesium from our
food when phytate
is absent.”



So, feeding your
chickens (or yourselves) lots of raw beans, seeds, nuts, and grains can
make them malnourished since they won’t be able to get the phosphorus,
calcium, zinc, and magnesium they need.  Luckily, there are
several possible solutions.

  • Soaking legumes reduces phytic acidSoak
    the seeds. 
    Especially with legumes, soaking the seeds at
    warm temperatures (140 degrees Fahrenheit is most effective) for up to
    36 hours can reduce the phytic acid content enough to double the
    nutrition you get from the seeds.  Just soaking for 18 hours at
    room temperature removed half to two thirds of the phytic acid from
    three kinds of beans.  This is much more effective than sprouting
    the seeds or cooking them.  See this
    blog
    for more information.
  • Remove the seed coat. 
    Most of
    the phytic acid is found in the seed coat, so white flours and similar
    products are much safer in this respect.  Unfortunately, most of
    the
    nutrition in seeds is also found in the seed coat, so you should use
    this technique with caution.
  • Grind seeds and soak the mash. 
    Traditionally, farmers used to grind grains and legumes into a mash
    which they soaked before feeding it to pigs and chickens. 
    (Ruminants don’t have as much trouble with phytic acid, so this wasn’t
    necessary when feeding cows, etc.)  This technique activates a
    protein called phytase, which is already found in the seeds (especially
    in rye) and which breaks down the troublesome phytic acid.  This
    is also part of the theory behind making sourdough bread.
  • Phytate content in foodsChoose seeds lower in phytic acid. 
    Unfortunately,
    the best sources of protein also seem to be the worst phytic acid
    offenders.  Soybeans, peanuts, almonds, and sunflower seeds have
    up to
    three times as much phytic acid as cowpeas (which seem to be one of the
    safer seeds.)  Grains tend to fall somewhere in the  middle.
  • Grow our own seeds. 
    Phytic
    acid content within the same type of seed varies drastically depending
    on how the seeds were grown.  Some studies suggest that raising
    your
    seeds with compost instead of chemical fertilizer (especially high
    phosphate fertilizer) will reduce the phytic acid content. 
    Fresher seeds will also help since these seeds have more phytase to
    counteract the phytic acid.
  • Increase vitamin C in the diet. 
    Ascorbic acid in the diet has been shown to counteract the effects of
    phytic acid, at least with regard to iron absorption.  So, if you
    feed
    your chickens a lot of fresh fruits and vegetables at all times rather
    than making seeds the entirety of their diets, the phytic acid won’t be
    as much of a problem.  In general, the more well-rounded your
    chickens’ diet is, the less difference a bit of phytic acid will make
    in their lives.

Does that sound
complicated enough to send you scurrying away from trying to make your
own chicken feed?  I hope not — after all, I suspect the big
feed companies don’t pay that much attention to phytic acid when they
mix their feeds.  Some scientists suggest that the high phosphorus
levels in chicken manure are the direct result of feeding chickens food
high in phytic acid which they can’t digest.  Surely we can do
better.



Although chicken feed is
complicated, their water is simple.  Clean water means healthy
hens.  Keep your chickens’ water clean with our
homemade chicken
waterer
.