Chicken ramps

Chicken on a ramp

Many of you probably
have
small
ramps leading up into your chicken coop
like we do, but can
chickens learn to utilize larger ramps?  Diane wrote in with this
photo of a ramp she used to give her chickens access to a 1/3 of an
acre of forest on the other side of their fence.  She wrote:



Chicken ramp“The ramp is 8 feet long on both
sides, and three feet high in the middle…it’s a pretty gentle
slope….  I coaxed them over the ramp (or physically walked them
up the ramp) this AM and then watched as they foraged like crazy. 
An hour or so later, I noticed my Barred Rock wanted back into her
enclosure, so I went into the woods and gathered them all up and
returned them…no easy task!

“My question is this…if they have never used a ramp before, and the
ramp is not attached to the coop, will they learn to use the ramp to
gain access to the extended foraging area, or will I need to make a
door as you suggest and leave it open for them to come and go through?”



While I think that in
Diane’s case, a
pophole is
an easier solution, I was intrigued by the idea of large chicken ramps
because I have a dream of creating a ramp in our chickens’
forest
pasture
that goes up
six or seven feet, then across the driveway along
an elevated walkway, only to spit the chickens out in a new pasture on
the far side.  So I suggested that Diane try leaving a trail of
treats up the ramp, spaced about three or four inches apart, to tempt
the chickens to cross by themselves in hopes that they could learn to
walk across the fence.  She replied to my suggestion eight hours
later by saying:



“We
have two who learned to use the
ramp by only going over it once!  I think they remember what’s on
the other side, and if it’s an easy trip, they’ll be inclined to make
it.

“By the way, I think the two hens that crossed the ramp again, after
the first time over, WERE following the trail of treats I had left for
them!”



So, it sounds like a
ramp might be a possibility if you need to move
your chickens between non-contiguous pastures.



Our chicken waterer keeps the flock hydrated
during their busy days on pasture.

What is a good hatch rate

Chicken hatchingYou might assume (like I did)
that if you put ten eggs in your incubator, you’ll end up with ten
chicks, but there’s a lot that can go wrong before your chicks
hatch.  Assuming you do everything right, what kind of hatch rate
is a backyard hobbyist looking at?




Browsing through chicken
books from the early 1900s, I came across hatch rates from a time when
incubators were still in their infancy.  During this period, many
of the small and
mid-size chicken farms were still raised new chicks each year using
broody hens, which gave them hatch rates of 45% to 65%.  Larger
farms (and those raising the new, unbroody varieties) were moving over
to artificial incubation and netted 30% to 79% living chicks, with the
average hovering around 50%.




For information on
modern incubation technology, I turned to random accounts on the
internet.  (I know, not very scientific, but if you look at enough
of them….)  When hatching homegrown eggs that haven’t sat around
very long, it sounds like you might manage to get 75% to 80% (sometimes
hatching all of your eggs but sometimes having runs where you hatch far
fewer.)  For shipped eggs, 50% hatch seems to be about average.




I’ve had a steep
learning curve during my first two hatches.  My first hatch had
major problems with temperature and
humidity
control
and I also
used less viable eggs from old hens, so I ended up with only 17% living
chicks.  For my second hatch, I improved on the environmental
conditions but still used old eggs in half of the incubator, comparing
them to mail order eggs from prime breeding stock. 
My
hatch rates there were 25% and 58%,
respectively.  I had
hoped to improve my hatch rate yet again for my third incubator run by
using only squeaky clean eggs, but it sounds like since
my
eggs will be all mail ordered
, I should probably expect
around a 50% hatch.  I’ll let you know how it goes in the middle
of June.



Be
sure to have a POOP-free chicken
waterer
on hand to get your chicks off to a healthy start.

Perennials vs. annuals in chicken pastures

Over-grazed pastureIn the last year, I’ve been
experimenting with crops that I can grow in the chicken pasture to give
the chickens extra food.  After rotating chickens to a new
pasture, I’ve seeded bare patches with buckwheat, beans, wheat, field
peas, oats, clover, ground cherries, lettuce, amaranth, sunflowers, and
pearl millet, and have discovered a couple of flaws in this plan:

  • Planting annuals slows down the
    rotation
    .  Our chickens get the most free food from pasture
    during their first week on fresh ground, but it generally takes at
    least a month or two after planting before I feel that crops are tall
    enough to allow chickens back into an empty pasture.  That tends
    to slow rotation down significantly, leading to overgrazed pastures
    like the one shown above.
  • Chickens don’t like cultivated food as much
    as wild food
    .  Over and over, I’ve turned chickens into
    pastures with mature annual crops…and the chickens have walked right
    past the cultivated food to eat chickweed or grass seed heads. 
    Clearly, I’m not as good at guessing what chickens like to eat as
    nature is.
  • Seeds scattered on bare ground are eaten by
    wild birds
    .  Although I don’t have this problem in the
    garden, the pastures have a small enough human presence that I have to
    bury seeds if I want them to come up.  Since the areas chickens
    scratch bare still have roots holding them together, this is tough to
    do without tilling.

Chicken in grassOn the other hand, the forest pasture (and the forest beyond the
pasture) hold nearly endless appeal for the chickens due to the
complexity of the environment.  Leafy areas under shrubs are great
for worm-hunting, a different weed always seems to be sending up tiny
fruits that the chickens relish, and there tend to be lots of flying
and crawling insects in a diverse environment.




As a result, I’m
changing gears and starting to plant perennials in the chicken
pastures,
Timber bamboo shootespecially trees and shrubs
that will add complexity to the pastures’ ecological structure. 
I’ve discovered that it’s pretty easy to keep the adult chickens out of
newly planted and mulched areas by making a quick and dirty fence out
of four fence posts and a length of plastic trellis (although our
tweens did squeeze into one of these areas and demolished two young
grapevines.)  In a year or so, I’ll open up the fences and let the
chickens enjoy the leafy areas beneath grapevines, timber bamboo,
mulberries, and almonds.  As an advocate of permaculture and
(especially) forest gardening, I
should have guessed that pasture structure would be more important to
chickens than pasture contents.



Our chicken waterer works perfectly in pastures
since it never spills on uneven terrain.