Farewell Sussex

Chicken rustlerMy brother came to pick up
the
Light
Sussex chickens
between one flood and another last week.



We learned the hard way
last year that
catching
chickens in daylight is no fun
.  So we headed to the
coop the night before and plucked the four youngsters off their perch,
then settled them into the isolation coop for the night.




Isolation coopAn isolation coop is an
awfully handy thing to have around, and it doesn’t have to be
much.  Ours is simply a blocked off third of a chicken tractor
with a perch and a spot to insert a
chicken waterer.  Sure, the chickens
are cramped while waiting for their move the next day, but they seem
pretty content to just settle in and nap.



Caging chickens

Light SussexIt’s actually a good idea to
make your isolation coop pretty small since cramped spaces make it that
much easier to grab chickens when you’re ready for them the next day.
 We had no problem scooping up three hens and our young rooster to
stash them away in wire carrying cages.  As you can see in the
picture below, Joey had brought a live trap to use as one carrying case.



Live trap

Caged chicken lays an eggOur homestead lies half a
mile away from where we park the cars, so my brother and I each had to
carry a crate of chickens.  All was going well until we rounded
the barn and I noticed that one of my hens had laid an egg!  (By
the way, this is a great way to make someone think they’re getting a
good deal when they come to take laying hens home.)




I set the crate down and
took out the egg, then lifted the cage back up…and a hen popped out!
 Our wire cage was free when we bought our first set of chickens
five years ago, and the cage was pretty ramshackle then.  It turns
out the wire floor had popped loose, letting a hen sneak into the wild.




Carrying chickensLuckily, our Light Sussex are
the world’s tamest chickens.  Even after being grabbed off her
roost at midnight, stuffed into an isolation coop until after lunch,
then crammed into a cage and bounced around on my shoulder, she didn’t
run off.  Instead, she pecked happily at snails and greenery
around our feet, and once Mark threw down some chicken feed, sat still
long enough that Joey was able to grab her with ease.




We wired the cage back
together and continued on our way.  Joey nearly dropped his
chickens in the creek while crossing, but just barely managed to make
it out unscathed, and both crates somehow fit in the trunk of his car.



Chicken walk

I’m looking forward to
hearing how the Sussex like their new
high
rise apartment
, and
the rest of our flock is thrilled to be out foraging in the floodplain
again.  Thanks for taking the garden marauders off our hands, Joey!

Converting an automatic chicken door to solar

how to build a DIY low budget battery charge controller for a 6 volt battery

The most obvious way to power
an automatic chicken coop door opener when you don’t have a long enough
extension cord is to add a solar cell.




A blogger named Slinky had
such a set up, and took the opportunity to teach himself the art of
making your own
DIY
6 volt charge controller
.
The controller prevents the battery from getting over charged and
damaged, a danger that will be certain if you hook a solar cell up to a
battery without one.




Slinky deserves bonus points
for his detailed description of the process. Sure you could save a
bunch of time by purchasing a pre-made charge controller, but you’ll
get an emotional charge from doing it yourself and learn a few things
that may help in your next project.

Dry incubation in the winter

Weighing eggs for dry incubationDry
incubation
worked
well for me last summer, but within a day of starting this year’s first
incubator run, I could tell I needed to make some changes.  I
noticed last year that keeping the humidity in the incubator in the low
thirties ensured proper egg weight loss, and the summer air was so damp
that the right humidity was easy to achieve without adding any water to
the wells of the incubator.  However, when I plugged in the
incubator this February, humidity was in the teens to low twenties —
too dry even for dry incubation.


I filled one of the
wells with water after the first day and the humidity rose to hover
between the high twenties and low thirties.  But when I
weighed
my eggs
at the end
of day two, I could tell the eggs were still losing water too
quickly.  So I filled the second well part of the way up with
water to boost the humidity into the forties for a short time.


As the weather warmed up
outside, humidity in the incubator also rose.  Soon, filling only
one well was enough to keep the interior humidity around 35%, and my
weight
loss spreadsheet

started to show more optimal weight loss.


The moral of the story
is — dry incubation is very weather dependent, so focus on the
humidity levels in the incubator, not the amount of water you add to
the wells.  Now I’ve just got to wait another week and a half to
see how well my humidity manipulation worked.


Our chicken waterer gets chicks off to a fast
start with clean water that won’t wet their bedding.