Author: Anna & Mark

Mollison on integrating poultry into the homestead

Dove coteEarlier this week, I wrote
about
Bill
Mollison’s tips on designing a forest pasture
that produces as much
food as possible for your chickens.  But that’s not all he
had to say about poultry.  Mollison also provided a rundown
on other types of birds you might consider adding to your
homestead for specific purposes.




Pigeons/Doves.  I was intrigued
when I read
a
recent blog post

about using pigeons as a way to bring much-needed nutrients from
the surrounding landscape to a concentrated location on your
farm.  The dream is that you can train your pigeons to
consider a dovecote their home, then let them loose every day to
forage for seeds on their own so you don’t have to feed
them.  At intervals, you harvest the squabs (partially grown
chicks) and manure.  This does sound like an intriguing idea,
but I have reservations.  What’s to stop the pigeons from
eating all of the seeds in your garden? We can handle the few
cardinals and song sparrows who eat our seeds and berries, but I
definitely wouldn’t want to add to their population.  And
would it really be worth it to pluck squabs for that small amount
of meat?  I’m waiting to see Milkwood implement the idea
before jumping on the pigeon bandwagon.




Quail.  I’ve read bits
and pieces about quail (especially Japanese quail, aka coturnix)
from time to time, but all of the sources I’d read about were
raising the birds in confinement, which doesn’t interest me. 
Mollison notes that quail are small and insectivorous enough that
they can often be allowed to run free in a vegetable garden
without causing damage (and, presumably, without requiring much or
any storebought feed).  Again, I’d like to see some firsthand
data from someone before risking my beloved garden, but the
potential for free eggs and meat is hard to ignore.




GeeseDucks.  Ducks are less
likely than chickens to cause damage in a vegetable garden, but
will still eat tender plants and squash seedlings under their big
feet.  On the other hand, they eat insects, slugs, and
snails, and some duck varieties are reputed to lay as well as or
better than chickens.  I could see raising a batch of ducks
just to eat up slugs before planting your main crop vegetable
garden in the spring.




Geese.  As Harvey
Ussery noted
,
geese can be trained to weed certain kinds of gardens, although
they will eat ripening fruit and can squish plants with their feet
just like ducks do.  Geese are the most herbivorous of the
commonly-raised poultry species, so they can get a lot more value
out of pasture than chickens do, turning grass into eggs and meat.




I’d be curious to
hear from readers who raise any of these less-common types of
birds in complex, permaculture systems.  Have you found a way
to integrate them into your homestead without damaging your
garden?



Our chicken waterer also provides clean
water for all kinds of waterfowl, pigeons, and quail.

This
post is part of our Mollison’s
Introduction to Permaculture lunchtime series

Read
all of the entries:

Mollison on creating a new forest pasture

Forest patsure design

Bill
Mollison’s Introduction to Permaculture
is one of the few texts
I’ve read that includes in-depth information on developing a
high-yield
forest
pasture
rather
than simply grazing
animals under existing trees
.  Mollison describes a
rotational
pasture

arrangement that we may try to replicate around our new
starplate
coop
, and which
I’ve diagrammed above.  Basically, fencelines are doubled,
which turns them into protection for useful trees and shrubs while
the perennials are getting established.  Mollison shows trees
encircling his whole arrangement, but I think I might just double
the cross-fences to protect trees, and perhaps eventually make
hedges along the outside fencelines.



Chicken moat

Mollison assumes
you’ll be grazing several different kinds of animals in your
pasture, which we may eventually work up to.  In his vision,
chickens are allowed to run through the moat areas nearly from the
beginning, but larger livestock are kept out until the trees are
at least four or five years old (or potentially forever).  As
the trees mature, they arch out over the pasture, providing shade
and dropping their fruits and seeds into areas all livestock can
reach.  During times of drought when grasses aren’t growing,
you can also cut and toss young willow and poplar branches from
the protected moats to goats and sheep to provide fresh feed.




Another innovation of
Mollison’s pasture design is the strawyard around the coop or main
animal shed.  This is a high-traffic area, and it tends to
become bare in permanent rotational pastures, so it would be worth
considering mulching this zone to provide invertebrates for
chickens to scratch up and to prevent erosion and mud.  If
you don’t have a
forest to give your chickens a winter pasture
, you could
potentially keep them in the strawyard during
Black locust pasturecold weather (or during overgrazed periods
throughout the summer) to prevent damage to the main pastures.




I suspect the hardest
part of this design for me wouldn’t be the extra work and expense
required to make the fenced moats.  Instead, it would be
choosing livestock-friendly trees and shrubs for the moats rather
than turning those zones into intensively-grown human food. 
Mollison’s top suggestions for temperate-area poultry fodder
plants include: mulberries, gojiberries (won’t fruit for us, but
maybe will for you), elderberries, black locust, serviceberry,
hawthorn, and autumn olive (beware — a bad invasive
here!).  We already have several black locusts that we
carefully cleared around in that pasture, and I’m rooting half a
dozen or more mulberries, so we’ve got a good start in that
direction.



Our chicken waterer provides clean water
to birds, whether they’re pastured or cooped up.

This
post is part of our Mollison’s
Introduction to Permaculture lunchtime series

Read
all of the entries:

Preventing inbreeding in a small chicken flock

Crowing rooster“When we bought 9
chicks last year, one turned out to be a rooster. He was a
fantastic protector of the flock, didn’t overmate but did have
a few dismayed favorites, but whoa was he scary! He became
particularly aggressive and had to go.
This year we hatched a dozen or so eggs in a friend’s
incubator, and she offered a few eggs from her mixed flock
too. We chose this year’s new roo with attention to avoiding
possible issues with inbreeding (and aggression!) and the
crossed-beak tendency of Easter eggers. So we chose a male
from our friend’s eggs. How many years do you imagine one can
inbreed a flock before the tight gene pool negative affects
the flock? Do you know offhand what negative impacts one would
see?

— jen g.


This is an interesting question, and one I don’t entirely know
the answer to.  I’ll answer the second part first since
it’s easier.

The first negative effects of inbreeding to show up in a chicken
flock will probably be a higher percentage
of dud eggs in the incubator
.  Chicks that hatch may
also be weaker and less inclined to thrive.  Finally, you
may start seeing unusual genetic defects in the offspring of the
rooster and his sisters or daughters.

Mother hen and
chicksI don’t think there’s any
hard-and-fast rule for how soon you’ll notice inbreeding
problems.  In part, it will likely depend on how large and
diverse your flock is to begin with.  Are you starting with
just a few birds that have been linebred to produce show-quality
chickens of a certain breed?  If so, you’re much more
likely to see inbreeding problems quickly.  On the other
hand, if your flock is made up of several different varieties or
of mutt birds, inbreeding will probably take longer to show
negative effects.  I’ve noticed in my own flock that the
offspring of our rooster and a completely different variety of
chicken tend to show hybrid
vigor
when compared to the smaller offspring of the
rooster and other birds of the same type.

Harvey
Ussery’s book suggests some methods for getting around
inbreeding problems
, but his techniques rely on the
infrastructure to keep multiple flocks of chickens
separate.  On the backyard scale, I think the best bet is
to just save your best birds back for breeding each year, and to
add in outside blood if you start noticing genetic
problems.  I hope that helps!

Our chicken waterer
is an easy way to ensure that multiple flocks all have
access to clean water without turning chicken care into a
lengthy daily chore.