Author: Anna & Mark

Perennials vs. annuals in chicken pastures

Over-grazed pastureIn the last year, I’ve been
experimenting with crops that I can grow in the chicken pasture to give
the chickens extra food.  After rotating chickens to a new
pasture, I’ve seeded bare patches with buckwheat, beans, wheat, field
peas, oats, clover, ground cherries, lettuce, amaranth, sunflowers, and
pearl millet, and have discovered a couple of flaws in this plan:

  • Planting annuals slows down the
    rotation
    .  Our chickens get the most free food from pasture
    during their first week on fresh ground, but it generally takes at
    least a month or two after planting before I feel that crops are tall
    enough to allow chickens back into an empty pasture.  That tends
    to slow rotation down significantly, leading to overgrazed pastures
    like the one shown above.
  • Chickens don’t like cultivated food as much
    as wild food
    .  Over and over, I’ve turned chickens into
    pastures with mature annual crops…and the chickens have walked right
    past the cultivated food to eat chickweed or grass seed heads. 
    Clearly, I’m not as good at guessing what chickens like to eat as
    nature is.
  • Seeds scattered on bare ground are eaten by
    wild birds
    .  Although I don’t have this problem in the
    garden, the pastures have a small enough human presence that I have to
    bury seeds if I want them to come up.  Since the areas chickens
    scratch bare still have roots holding them together, this is tough to
    do without tilling.

Chicken in grassOn the other hand, the forest pasture (and the forest beyond the
pasture) hold nearly endless appeal for the chickens due to the
complexity of the environment.  Leafy areas under shrubs are great
for worm-hunting, a different weed always seems to be sending up tiny
fruits that the chickens relish, and there tend to be lots of flying
and crawling insects in a diverse environment.




As a result, I’m
changing gears and starting to plant perennials in the chicken
pastures,
Timber bamboo shootespecially trees and shrubs
that will add complexity to the pastures’ ecological structure. 
I’ve discovered that it’s pretty easy to keep the adult chickens out of
newly planted and mulched areas by making a quick and dirty fence out
of four fence posts and a length of plastic trellis (although our
tweens did squeeze into one of these areas and demolished two young
grapevines.)  In a year or so, I’ll open up the fences and let the
chickens enjoy the leafy areas beneath grapevines, timber bamboo,
mulberries, and almonds.  As an advocate of permaculture and
(especially) forest gardening, I
should have guessed that pasture structure would be more important to
chickens than pasture contents.



Our chicken waterer works perfectly in pastures
since it never spills on uneven terrain.

More chicken pasture planting

Chicken pasture plan

Japanese beetle on grape leafWith
the chickens
moved
to their newest pasture
, I couldn’t resist trying
out several experimental plantings in the area they left behind. 
At the moment, this pasture is not a forest pasture, just a sea of
grass, so I put in two almonds for summer shade for the flock (and nuts
for us.) 
Hardy almonds are a bit experimental in
zone 6, but if they work out, the chickens might get something out of
the flesh that falls away to reveal the nuts.
  And trees
make leaves, which the flock adores scratching under.



I also planted three
grape vines along the northern fence of the pasture.  I like to
start grapes from hardwood cuttings and had run out of places to put
these guys, so I figured I’d give them a shot in the chicken
pasture.  If I play my cards right, I might be able to get the
chickens to eat the Japanese beetles off the leaves for me, then turn
the chickens into another pasure when the fruits are just getting ripe.




Across the fence, I
installed an Illinois Everbearing Mulberry.  If this tree takes
root, in a few years it should spread its canopy into this pasture and
drop fruits for my flock.  The area the tree is in will be our
next chicken pasture, so the tree will feed the flock when they’re in
two different pastures.




Song sparrowFinally, I sprinkled collards
and “Salad Blend” (lettuce, chicory, endive, spinach, and Swiss chard)
onto the patches of ground scratched bare by the chickens.  The
idea was that when the chickens are rotated back into this pasture in
about six weeks, they’d have tender greens to nibble on. 
Unfortunately, a flock of sparrows descended almost immediately and ate
nearly every seed.  I noticed they also ate
the
oats I’d scattered in the grain paddock
(although the clover
sprouted and I took the time to bury the field peas.)  Birds don’t
come to steal scattered seeds in the garden, but I guess these pastures
feel more safe to them — looks like I’ll either have to sprinkle
compost on similar plantings in the future, rake the seeds in, or take
a page out of
Masanobu
Fukuoka’s book
and
make clay balls to encase the seeds until they sprout.



With our chicken waterer, I only have to top off
their bucket once a month on pasture.

Hatching eggs why and how

Fragile boxAfter learning that our old
hens lay eggs with limited fertility
, we opted to buy hatching
eggs online for our third incubator run of the season.  The
concept is new to me, so I figured some of you might be asking the same
questions I had, like:






Why
buy hatching eggs instead of chicks?


Hatching eggs can be a
bit cheaper than mail order chicks, but not by much.  Recently, I
spent $35 (shipping included) to buy 20 black australorp hatching eggs,
which I hope will turn into 10 to 15 chicks, and previously I hatched 7
cuckoo marans from a dozen eggs purchased for $25.  (Hatch rates
tend to be a bit lower for eggs ordered online than for eggs that
haven’t spent several days jiggling around in the mail.)  For the
sake of comparison, 12 straight run black australorps from a major
hatchery (plus shipping) would cost me $40.26, but I was able to buy
australorp chicks locally for $2 apiece earlier this spring, which
would beat the hatching eggs rate.  I definitely got a good deal
on the rarer cuckoo marans, though, since those 7 chicks would have
cost me $42.63 as mail order chicks and no one keeps this breed in our
area.




Newly hatched chickThe main reason I chose to
buy hatching eggs is because I wanted to learn my incubator better, but
I was also sold on several other factors.  Most importantly, you
can often buy just a few hatching eggs at a time, which is helpful for
folks who can’t handle 25 chicks (the minimum for most hatchery
orders.)  I was also able to pick and choose the genetics of my
parent birds, focusing on chickens raised on pasture with — hopefully
— good foraging genes.  In contrast, hatcheries tend to select
birds using traits I’m less interested in, like how closely a chicken
matches certain appearance standards and how well those chickens live
in a hatchery setting.  Finally, buying hatching eggs allows me to
keep hatchery diseases out of my flock (although there’s always a
slight chance disease will carry over on eggshells.)




Of course, you also have
to keep in mind that home-hatched eggs won’t be sexed.  For us,
that isn’t a problem since we want to rebuild our laying flock and also
want to raise males for meat, but if you’re squeamish about doing away
with extra roosters, hatching eggs might not be for you.






Where
can you find hatching eggs?


Since you’re probably
looking for a specific breed, I won’t recommend any one egg
source.  Instead, try out these three options:

  • Google for “black australorp hatching eggs” (or whatever breed
    you’re looking for)
  • Head to ebay and search for the same terms
  • Look on your local Craigslist (and put up a wanted ad)

Hatching eggsYou’ll probably find several
different options, so you’ll need to decide which factors matter the
most to you.  I figured that price was less important than the
photos of the parent birds and was won over by a small farm that raises
the parent chickens on pasture.  A source closer to you is likely
to have chickens better suited to your climate (and shipping will also
be faster, which will increase your hatch rates.)  Buying hatching
eggs is all about having more control over the new members of your
flock, so be a bit choosy.






How
do I treat my hatching eggs?


Eggs settleYour eggs should arrive carefully packaged,
often with an extra egg or two in the box to make up for eggs cracked
during shipment.  In my limited experience, only one egg out of 46
arrived cracked, but several came with small smears of poop or
dirt.  It’s best to either discard these dirty eggs, wash them
with a special solution that maintains the protective coating on the
egg, or sand the dirt off.  Then arrange your eggs in a carton
(big end up or flat) or in your incubator and allow them to settle for
at least twelve hours before beginning incubation.  After that,
you can treat your hatching eggs like any others.



Our chicks got off to a
healthy start with clean water from our
chicken waterer.