Butternut squash in the chicken pasture

Damaged butternut

Trellised butternutOf all the annuals I’ve
planted in the chicken pastures, the most appropriate seem to be
butternuts.  (Actually, I didn’t plant them —
volunteers
came up from the compost pile
.)



The chickens were absent
from the pasture long enough for the squash leaves to get big and
spiny, so when the flock was rotated in, the birds mostly left the
butternut plants alone.  They did damage the developing fruits so
much that the squash won’t be able to be harvested for humans — the
day after taking the first photo, that butternut was about a quarter
eaten by our smart chickens.  But that’s a
good thing since the goal of
plantings in the chicken pasture is to make chicken food.




In fact, the butternut
vines that made a jailbreak and tried to enter the main garden (which I
then trellised up the pasture fence) will probably make some extra
squash for us.  So I guess our butternut was a dual purpose
planting — some for the chickens and some for the humans.




Broken sunflowerWhat failed?  Most of
the sunflowers were too shaded to do much, but a few made big
blooms…then got trampled by our ravenous hordes.




The ground
cherries
came up and
got lost in the weeds.  They might still be there — I’ll know
come fall if their distinctive fruits stand out.




Grain amaranth and pearl
millet either didn’t come up or didn’t grow fast enough to reach above
the weeds.  I planted all of these annuals in spots scratched bare
by the flock, but it didn’t take long for the wild pasture plants to
regain their toehold on the empty ground.




Despite the butternut
success, I still think that
planting
perennials and building the diversity of the chicken pasture is a
better strategy
than
trying to plant annuals specifically for the chickens.  But it’s
good to know that at least one plant can stand up to moderate chicken
abuse.



Our chicken waterer kept the flock happy as they
explored their new pasture.

How to catch chickens

Stalking a chickenNow and then, you’ll need to
separate a chicken from the flock.  For us, this happens when a
chicken is being picked on (unheard of now that our
chicken waterer gives the flock something
else to peck at) or when we want to eat the chicken for dinner the next
day.  We’ve tried all of the hard ways to catch a chicken, and
here are the ones that really don’t work:

  • Run after a chicken
    Boy is this funny to watch!  We’re actually able to catch our
    Golden Comet hens this way, but only because they crouch down when we
    get close.
  • Throw a towel or sheet over the
    chicken
    .  Although this technique works to some extent if
    you’re in an enclosed space (like a coop), it still tends to resemble a
    Three Stooges routine.

Holding a chicken
I’ve read that old timey farmers had a tool with a long handle and a
loop on the end that would snag a chicken’s foot and make it trip, but
I’ve always been afraid to try this for fear I’d injure the bird’s
leg.  Instead, when we think far enough ahead, we do it the easy
way — just grab the chicken off its perch at night.  Once night
has fully fallen, chickens don’t want to move because they won’t be
able to see to get back up to their safe roost, so they just let you
pick them up.  (Be sure to hold your hands around the chicken’s
wings in case it gets excited.)




You probably don’t want
to kill your chicken at 9 pm (and shouldn’t anyway since it’s best to
keep them off food overnight so that they have an empty crop, making
the carcass easier to clean.)  So you’ll also need an isolation
pen.  A wire cage can work, but Mark likes to keep our chickens as
happy as possible even when they’re on their way to the slaughtering
block, so he separated off a small section of one of our chicken
tractors
to give the birds a more gentle spot to spend the
night.  By keeping this space small and making the opening on the
top, it was easy to grab our cockerels when we wanted them.

Chicken isolation pen

Grit for chickens

Chicken digestionChickens can’t chew, but
their food does get ground up before being digested.  Those of you
who have killed and gutted chickens for the table have probably
discovered the gizzard — a round object about half the size of your
fist that, when cut open, is often full of hard objects like stones and
sand.  The gizzard is a muscle that expands and contracts, working
your chickens’ dinner up against these objects (known as grit) to break
the food into smaller pieces and aid in digestion.




People who keep their
flocks in artificial environments have to provide grit for their birds
or the chickens will be like a lot of old geezers who’ve lost their
teeth and can only eat Chickens with gritapplesauce.  Chickens with
no access to any kind of grit can do okay on commercial chicken feed
since it’s pre-ground, but they won’t be able to digest whole grains
and will have a tough time with most wild foods.




Pastured chickens
usually pick up enough natural grit to do the job — bones, rocks, and
shells all act as grit in the wild.  But after reading that
chickens will be less prone to forage if they don’t have enough grit to
grind up the tougher food, I decided to introduce some grit and see
what happened.  You can buy grit in the feed store if money is
burning a hole in your pocket, but I figured our flock would be fine
with some creek gravel.  Our girls didn’t seem very interested
once they realized there was no food in the pile, which I figure is a
good sign and indicates that our chickens are getting plenty of natural
grit after all.



Unlimited clean water from our chicken waterer is the other
component in a healthy chicken diet.