How to get free range chickens to forage

Day range chickensIn a previous post, I
hypothesized that you can tell the quality of the forage by how much
time a chicken spends lounging around vs. actively foraging
.  It turns out that
scientists have spent considerable time collecting data on the
activities of chickens in commercial day
range
settings, and have discovered that broilers often prefer to
sit around inside.  Even at peak foraging times and temperatures,
only 13% to 25% of broilers will set foot outside the door.  (I
guess I need to give our ladies a break — even when they’re not
actively working, they do tend to hang around outside.)




Here are some highlights
of the studies:

  • Chickens forage time of dayMorning
    and/or evening seemed to be peak foraging times
    Students
    at Truman State University
    found that the most chickens were
    actively foraging from 7 am to 10:59 am while this
    UK study
    (the data of which is shown here) found the most chickens
    outside right after the popholes opened in the morning and right before
    they closed at night.
  • Chickens will range further from
    their house if trees are present
    Marian
    Dawkin
    planted young trees in bare chicken pastures and studied the
    flocks’ behavior for the next three years.  In year one, there was
    no difference between the pastures with and without trees (presumably
    because the trees were so small), but two years later, more chickens
    were found in the tree-filled pastures than in those that had been left
    bare.



The take-home message is
— make sure your chickens have access to pasture early in the morning
and late in the evening and plant some trees!



Putting a chicken waterer at the far end of the
pasture is another useful way to get your chickens outside.

Supplemental light in the chicken coop

Supplemental coop lightWe put a light in our chicken
coop for the first time this year.  You’re probably aware that you
can boost egg production in the winter by keeping “day length” 14 hours
or longer.  The flip side of that coin is that your flock has to
deal with laying extra eggs during what would naturally be more of a
rest period, so your hens may get sick and/or wear out sooner.




In the past, I’ve
decided the extra eggs weren’t worth the wear and tear on our flock
(and increased electric bill), but shortening days arrived this year
before our spring pullets started to lay.  A young hen (pullet)
can start to lay eggs after she’s five to seven months old, but she
might put laying off until the next spring if she doesn’t get started
by early fall.  Our oldest pullets hatched on April 20, so they’re
due to start laying anytime, but I think the shortening days put their
biological clocks to sleep.  Anticipating a winter nearly without
eggs was enough to make me lower my standards and hook up a light.




Supplemental light
doesn’t have to be fancy, but it should be consistent.  You’ll
need a timer to turn the light on and off — 14 hours of daylight is
the goal, which currently means turning on the bulb for three hours in
the evening.  Many folks recommend adding your extra lighting in
the morning so that the chickens don’t get caught on the ground when
the light flicks off, but if you keep your light relatively dim, your
chickens will spend most of that additional daylight on the perch
anyway.

The type of bulb doesn’t seem to be all that important either — we
used a fluorescent for the lower electric bill, but some people suggest
even LED Christmas lights or nightlights might work.  The rule of
thumb is that good egg-laying breeds will respond to 5 lux, which is a
light intensity at which the average person can just barely read a
newspaper.  Heavier breeds need 50 lux to keep production up —
equivalent to the lighting in an average family living room. 
(This is still considerably less light than a very dark, overcast day
or office lighting.)



I have high hopes that
the extra light will have our Black Australorps laying shortly. 
I’m ready to stop rationing eggs!



Our chicken waterer keeps the flock
well-hydrated with POOP-free water.

Chickens not thrilled with oats and peas

Chickens graze mustard

Oats seemed to be trampled more than eatenI posted previously about letting
our chickens graze a pasture of annual winter forage
.  After watching them
utilize the pasture for four days, I have to admit that I was a bit
disappointed.  Yes, they did nibble at the annuals — especially
the tenderest mustard leaves, which the chickens pulled all the way up
and killed — but the flock just wasn’t that enthusiastic about the
pasture.  Despite that fact that I cut back their grain rations,
the chickens were still spending most of every day snoozing on the
sidelines and waiting for me to bring them snacks.




To be fair, I was
similarly disappointed by our chickens’ reactions to grass in their
spring pastures, then later learned that the chickens
did enjoy grass in the summer
when weeds were less succulent.  So perhaps the winter oats and
peas will be eaten with more relish later in the fall and winter when
perennials have gone to sleep.




Chickens on fall pastureAnother factor to be considered
is the continual grazing that all of our pastures have endured this
year.  Yes, I’ve been rotating our chickens from paddock to
paddock every week or so, but I can tell my management wasn’t top
notch.  I’ve read that cows have “repugnance zones” and won’t eat
any pasture plants within ten feet of a cow pie, often avoiding that
area for a year and a half!  Perhaps our chickens consider all of
these over-grazed pastures to be repugnance zones despite the rest
periods between bouts of grazing?




I’ll keep you posted as
I tweak our pasture system, but meanwhile, our chickens are enjoying
scratching up the nearby woodland.  More on that in a later post!



Our chicken waterer gives the flock something to
do even when they’re bored by their pasture.  As a result, our
flock is free from feather plucking and bullying.