Size of broilers Are better foragers bigger

Curled toe chickenI was curious whether my
Light Sussex had been getting enough to eat on their
strict
diet
.  I
figured that if the combination of storebought feed and scavenged feed
were below the optimal levels, we’d have a wide variation in chicken
sizes — some big ones that were able to forage best (or hog the feed)
and some small ones who just couldn’t find their own food.




One pullet seemed to
support that hypothesis.  Even though we straightened out her foot
as best we could, the chick born with
curled toe stayed the runt, clocking in
at a final dressed weight of only 0.87 pounds.  But she’s not
really a fair data point since I can envision how having only one foot
to scratch with would slow a chicken down even under the best of
conditions.  How did the other chickens do?




The chart below compares
our poorly fed Light Sussex to our third batch of chicks, which were
overfed in my opinion.  In both cases, I split the birds up into
pullets and cockerels since the latter are naturally larger than the
former.  I
Chicken sizesalso deleted the curled toe
pullet since she unfairly skewed the results.




I was interested to see
that there was actually
less
variation in size among the Sussex than the Australorp cockerels. 
The pullets showed more variation, perhaps because they are smaller
than cockerels and thus got less of the storebought feed?  Or
maybe the pullet variation was because of three hybrid pullets who
clearly weren’t purebred Light Sussex (they had gray instead of black
neck markings) and who grew much faster than their sisters.



I was careful to select
only the largest pullets and cockerel to keep as the foundation of our
new flock, so hopefully that means I will have chosen the best
foragers.  Maybe the next generation will have a
feed
conversion rate

better than 5.3:1 at 12 weeks.  Yes, that means my darling Light
Sussex didn’t quite beat my
spring
Australorps
, but
they came close.



Our chicken waterer kept the flock foraging with
plenty of clean water to wash down those worms.

Homemade chicken pluckers

Whiz-Bang PluckerOnce we started raising a lot of our own meat chickens, it quickly became clear that plucking was the most time-consuming part of the operation.  Luckily, there are several ways to make your own mechanical plucker and expedite processing day.

The Whiz-Bang Chicken Plucker is the best know, for a good reason — it works like a charm. You simply toss one large or two small birds in the moving drum and the feathers come off as the birds bounce around inside.  The good news is that plans are available for under
$20.  The bad news is that you’re either going to spend a long time scrounging for used parts or spend about $600 buying the parts new.  As a result, I think the Whiz-Bang Chicken Plucker is only appropriate for folks starting a pastured broiler business, plucking hundreds or thousands of chickens every year.


Markham plucker

The next most expensive option is the Markham Plucker, the plans for which are found in Mini-Farming: Self-Sufficiency on 1/4 Acre ($11.53 on Amazon.)  A motor turns a belt that rotates a piece of PVC pipe covered with chicken plucker fingers.  You hold the chicken against the fingers, rotating the bird as necessary to remove all of the feathers.  I haven’t used or made a Markham Plucker, but my guesstimate is that the plucker could be built using new parts for less than $200.  I’d be curious to hear a first hand account from someone who’s made and used a Markham Plucker — does it get the wing and tail feathers?  How well does the machine pluck?

Drill chicken plucker

The cheapest DIY option I’ve seen is the drill-head plucker.  Simply cut up some old bungee cords, install them in a short section of PVC pipe, and hook
that onto a drill.  The price tag (assuming you already have a drill) is around $20.  The plucker operates pretty much like the Markham Plucker and reports on its efficiency vary.


Half-plucked chicken

Washboard pluckerMark is currently experimenting with a washboard-style chicken plucker.  The idea is simple — he installed chicken plucker fingers in the sides and bottom of a U of plywood (cost — $20 to $30).  You hand-pluck the difficult wing and tail feathers, then pull the bird through the plucker a few times, rotating it after each pass.  I was astonished at the efficacy of version 1.0 (even though Mark thought it needed more work.)  Sure, I had to pluck the feathers around the neck and between the legs after the plucker was done, but I estimate the washboard plucker saved me about 10 minutes per bird — and it doesn’t require electricity!  I’ll keep you posted once Mark comes up with version 2.0.

Do you have an even better way to pluck your chickens?

How much does it cost to raise your own eggs

Brown eggs

Once all of our pullets
started to lay, I decided to crunch the numbers and figure out the feed
to egg ratio.  I estimated that our free ranging, six month old
flock currently has a
feed
conversion rate
of
2.1:1 and a feed cost of about $1 per dozen eggs.  (We don’t
spring for organic feed and do
free
range
the flock so
that they eat less then you’d expect.)




Of course, you also have
to factor in the six months we spent feeding those hens before they
started to lay.  I estimate each bird ate about 20 pounds of feed
during that period and will eat another 23 pounds or so during her
second six months of life.  If she lays 0.067 pounds of eggs per
day (4 medium eggs per week), her first year’s feed conversion rate
will be 3.5:1 — right up there with the meat from pastured Cornish
Cross.  That equals a cost of $1.67 per dozen medium eggs.




Golden Comet eggsHow
does that compare to our previous flock of
Golden Comets?  Unfortunately, I just
didn’t keep enough data to know for sure.  Mark dutifully writes
down the number of eggs he brings in from the coop each day and I can
estimate how much I fed each hen per day.  But I didn’t realize I
should weigh the eggs as well — our Golden Comets laid extra-large
eggs.




Live and learn! 
From now on, I’ll try to keep track not only of how many eggs are laid,
but also of their average weight and of how much feed goes to the
laying flock.  It’s just as important to make your laying flock
cost-effective as it is to make broilers pay for themselves, and it’s
hard to know if your strategies are working if you don’t have numbers
to back them up.



Our chicken waterer keeps the flock laying at
peak production.