What killed my chicken

MinkThe chicken keeper’s worst nightmare is unfortunately common. You head out to the coop to feed your hens…and instead walk into a battleground of dismembered chickens. Although you may simply want to crawl into a hole and cry at the time, it’s worth taking a few minutes to determine what kind of predator killed your chickens so you can prevent further attacks.


The key (and descriptions) below are based on a
factsheet from the Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service
.  To read the key, start at the top and answer each question, skipping ahead as ordered until you find your answer.  For example, if one bird is missing but you see feathers in the coop, you’d start at question 1, skip ahead to 5, and settle on a fox or coyote as your culprit.

1. Were the birds killed or missing?

  • Dead birds visible……………………………………………………………….go to 2
  • One or more birds missing……………………………………………………go to 5

2. How may birds were killed?

  • Several……………………………………………………………………………….go to 3
  • One or two killed…………………………………………………………………go to 4

3. How were several birds killed?

  • Mauled but not eaten…………………………………………………………….Dogs
  • Killed by small bites on body, neatly piled, some heads eaten…….Mink or Weasel
  • Heads and crops eaten on several birds……………………………………Raccoon

4. How were one or two birds killed?

  • Birds mauled, abdomen eaten………………………………………………..Opossum
  • Deep marks on head and neck, some eaten……………………………..Owl
  • Chicks killed and abdomen eaten; lingering scent…………………….Skunk
  • Young chicks dead on floor of coop………………………………………Rat

5. How many birds are missing?

  • One bird is missing but feathers remain…………………………………..Fox or Coyote
  • Several birds are missing without a trace…………………………………Human
  • One or two chicks are missing without a trace………………………….Rat

 

Dogs. A dog usually kills chickens for the sport.  Several dead birds with much mauling of the carcasses is usually evidence of a dog. Dogs usually visit the chicken pen during daylight hours rather than at night.

Mink and Weasel. Birds usually show signs of attack on the sides of the head if a mink
or weasel has visited the poultry house. With these predators, several birds will probably be killed and piled neatly together. The back of the head and neck are frequently the only parts of the carcass consumed.


Raccoon.  If a predator visits only once each 5 to 7 days and eats the head and the crop of the dead birds, a raccoon is probably responsible. Sometimes more than one bird will be killed at each visit.

Fox

Opossum. The opossum generally attacks only one bird at each visit. Usually, the bird’s abdomen has been eaten. Eggs may also be the object of the opossum’s raid on the chicken house.

Owl. The only likely culprit here is the great horned owl, which does sometimes attack poultry. One or two birds are usually killed, with the talons being used to pierce the brain.  The owl wil usually eat only the head and neck. Feathers found on a fence post near the chicken house or pen may provide an additional clue.

Fox and Coyote. The old sayings about the sly fox were not by accident. The fox and the coyote are very smart and difficult to catch in the act of raiding the flock. Since birds are frequently carried away with little evidence left behind, the only way of determining losses may be a head count.  Visits from these predators will usually be very early in the morning.  Keeping birds in a secure pen or poultry house until late morning is good insurance against losses from a fox or coyote.

Skunks. Skunks do not usually attack adult birds. They may kill a few chicks and eat the abdomen.  Eggs may also be the targest.  If skunks have been in the poultry house, the odor is usually a clue.

Humans. Unfortunately, there can be problems from people as well as animals. If birds are
missing with very little evidence, particularly from a predator proof pen or house, the possiblity of humans being involved should not be overlooked.

Designing a chicken coop

Chickens on pasture

Small chicken coopChicken coops are easier to
design than
chicken
tractors
because
you
don’t have to worry about mobility.  If you live on an established
farm, chances are there’s already a shed, outbuilding, or corner of
your barn that could be turned into a coop without much effort. 
I’ve even heard of suburbanites who build a coop in the corner of their
garage.





If you’re starting from scratch with storebought materials, I recommend
using basic “stick house” construction practices.  Walls are
framed one at a time using two by fours — one on each side and then
interior two by fours every two feet or so for stability.  Add
plywood on one side of the wall to close up the space, then screw the
walls together to make a box.  The roof begins with two by four or
two by six rafters, topped with plywood and then some sort of roofing
material.  You can make a lot of mistakes on your chicken coop and
then be a pro when the time comes to put an addition on your house!



Ramshackle chicken coop

We’re skinflints, so our
chicken coops are cobbled together out of old
lumber, pallets, doors, tin, and even cardboard.  The supplies
cost next to nothing, and luckily we have no neighbors to complain.




What does your chicken
coop look like?  If you email your photos to
info@avianaquamiser.com, I’ll add them to this post
so you an show off your building skills.



Our chicken waterer makes care of the flock so
easy you’ll have plenty of time to watch your hens’ antics.

How to determine the age of an egg

Egg float testWhen our
pullets started laying
,
they eschewed the nest box and made their own nest in the straw at the
back of the coop.  I didn’t notice until I was refreshing the
deep
bedding
and nearly
stepped on an egg on the ground.  Since I didn’t know how long the
egg had been present, I needed to test it before deciding if it was
safe to eat.




Luckily for those of us
with ornery layers, it’s very easy to run an egg test.  Simply
fill a cup up with water and gently lower your egg in.  If the egg
sits completely flat on the bottom like the one in the photo, it’s
newly laid and quite safe.  Over time, an air pocket will form and
enlarge in the egg, so slightly older eggs will start to sit a little
crooked, with the blunt end angled toward the surface.  That egg
is okay for baked goods and hard-boiling.  But if the egg floats,
very carefully take it outside and dispose of it before it explodes
into a foul-smelling mess in your kitchen!




Since our pullets aren’t
laying up to their full potential yet, we’ve been buying grocery store
eggs as a supplement to our dog’s feed.  I was curious to see how
“fresh” supermarket eggs did on the float test, so I lowered one into
my mug.  According to the float test, supermarket eggs are good
for baked goods only, which is just about all I’d use them for (and
that in a pinch.)  I sure am glad we’re back up to three homegrown
eggs a day!



Our chicken waterer provides clean drinking
water, which means more eggs.