How old does a hen have to be to lay an egg

Chicken eggOur pullets must read the
blog, because they started laying soon after I posted that
their
brother was fertile

They were about 19 weeks old when the first little pullet egg showed up
in the coop, and I’ve seen an egg every day or two from each of them
ever since.




If you’re waiting with
baited breath for your young hens to begin laying, you should be aware
that a couple of different factors can affect age at first lay. 
Chicken varieties vary quite a bit in how fast they mature, with
egg-laying hybrids like
Golden Comets sometimes popping out their
first egg at 16 weeks.  (That said, the Golden Comets we raised
from chicks in 2008 didn’t lay until they were 19 weeks old, just like
this year’s
Australorps.)



Perhaps even more
important than breed of chicken is time of year.  As the days get
shorter in the fall, mature hens often stop laying, and late-started
pullets may not even start producing until spring.  Last year, we
had to
turn
on lights in the chicken coop
to get our
late-April-hatched pullets to pick up the egg-laying pace.  I
suspect that this year’s pullets (hatched at the beginning of March)
will avoid that problem, and that their relatively early lay is also
due to experiencing so many long days early in their lives. 




Point of lay pulletAssuming you don’t miss the
boat and have to wait until spring, your hens should definitely be
laying by the time they’re 26 weeks old.  The first eggs are often
small, but with big yolks inside — I generally use two pullet eggs in
the place of one adult egg when cooking.




Don’t expect to be able
to hatch out chicks from these pullet eggs, though.  I took a look
at a few yolks as I was preparing our morning omelet and noticed that
the blastoderm in the pullet eggs had an unfertilized look. 
Similarly,
Joel
Salatin reports that if pullet eggs do hatch, they tend to yield up
small chicks that are less likely to survive
.



By the way, these hens
who are just starting to produce are known as “point-of-lay
pullets”.  This is a great thing to look for if you want to start
a laying flock the easiest possible way.  There’s no fiddling with
baby chicks or agonizing over whether your hens are too old to be
productive, just lots of nutritious, homegrown eggs to feed your family.



Our chicken waterer keeps hens well hydrated
with clean water so they can churn out eggs.

Incubator security

Incubating chicken eggsLast year, we were just
figuring out incubation, so we raised 13 chicks starting in late April,
6 chicks starting in mid May, 9 chicks starting in mid June, and 14
chicks starting in late August.  Since we kept out eleven chickens
(
four of
whom we gave to my brother
), that left us with 33 heirloom-size
broilers
in the freezer by the end of the year.  The frozen
meat was just barely enough to get us through.



This year, we kept back
one cockerel to
replace our
rooster
, but devoted
the rest of our two spring flocks to the freezer.  As a result,
we’ve already put away 30 birds, and our last incubator run — due to
hatch in early September — will be icing on the cake. 




Taped plugBut
we’re still not taking any chances.  I thought I’d worked all of
the kinks out of my incubation technique by the time I wrote
Permaculture
Chicken: Incubation Handbook
…then I accidentally
unplugged the turner and had to start over during our last hatch. 
So this time around, I’ve taped both the incubator and turner plugs
into their sockets and am quite confident I won’t think they’re
anything else when I mess around with the power strip.




Here’s hoping we’ll have
another great hatch and plenty of delicious meat to eat this winter.



Our chicken waterer is the drown-proof and
disease-resistant option for chicks from day 1.

Vermiculture in the deep bedding

Compost worms

Deep beddingToday’s post is about a crazy
experiment that probably won’t work…but is worth the 90% chance of
failure.  It occurred to me that I could take a handful of compost
worms from our worm bin and seed them into the
deep
bedding
of the
currently-vacant coop, then wait and see if the worms multiply. 
If the experiment works, the worms would increase the quality of the
deep bedding compost, and our flock could scratch the annelids up for
fresh protein once chicks displace our laying flock from their current
coop in October.




The biggest flaw in my
plan became evident when I pulled back the top layer of deep bedding to
seed the worms.  Even six inches down, the deep bedding material
was far too dry for worms.  I poured in the castings and worms
anyway and covered them back up, hoping that the critters would crawl
down to the damper layers, but I’m not holding my breath.




Black soldier fly and wormsHowever, this ill-fated
experiment suggested a different avenue of experimentation.  I
snagged worms from an area of our worm bin where the lid has bowed
down, creating a puddle after rains that then saturates the bedding
directly underneath.  When I dug into the wet spot, I discovered
that
black
soldier fly larvae

were four times as common as compost worms!  I thought black
soldier fly larvae needed to eat high nitrogen kitchen scraps, which
are in short supply on our homestead, so I’d given up on using these
insects as feed for our chickens.  But now I’m wondering if I
could make a black soldier fly bin full of wet horse manure and feed
the flock.  Back to the drawing board….



Our chicken waterer keeps the flock healthy and
the coop dry.  Maybe too dry?