Chickweed is a winter pick-me-up for chickens

Throwing chickweed in the chicken tractorsEvery
winter around this time, I rediscover my hens’ love for
chickweed.  Common chickweed (
Stellaria
media
) is a weed
on my garden beds, and by February it has often spread out in large
masses across any bare ground. I rip it out by the roots and toss
handfuls into the
chicken tractors.



In the summer, our hens
could care less about chickweed — they get enough lush, green growth
picking through the weeds under their feet.  But in the winter,
they’re mostly scratching through brown
Chickens scratching at chickweedgrass, and chickweed is much
appreciated.  I filled up the wheelbarrow and spread the contents
between our three tractors — by the next morning, I couldn’t see any
hint of chickweed left.  It had all gone down my girls’ gullets!




Unfortunately, the USDA
doesn’t provide nutritional analyses of common backyard weeds, but
various sources report that chickweed is a
dynamic
accumulator
of
potassium, phosphorus, and manganese.  I can just feel our hens
shaking off those winter blues!




Don’t forget to start
your
homemade chicken
waterers
to prepare
for spring!

Learn more about cover crops in my 99 cent ebook!This post is part of our Homemade Chicken Feed series
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A chip off the old rooster block

Australorp roosterDuring the summer, I take
responsibility for our chicken flock.  I
rotate them
through pastures carefully to keep the food fresh
, then give them snacks if
the pasture looks bare.  In the winter, though, I
let
them out into the woods
and cede the management
responsibility to our rooster.




This year’s rooster is a
different bird than his father was last year.  The two look
identical, but 2011/2012 rooster was a seeker of sun, always bringing
his ladies down to the spot where the light first hits on a winter
morning.  In contrast, 2012/2013 rooster seems to like hanging out
in the shady spot behind the barn, probably because he feels safer
there.  (A hawk did nearly get one of our hens while they foraged
in the sunny open last winter, so 2012/2013 does have a good point.)



Rhode Island Red on pasture

The roosters are
identical in another way, though — they like younger women. 
Those
Rhode
Island Reds
are
still being picked on by the hens who have been with us longer, but
they feel safe while nestled up against our rooster’s side.  It’s
not that he prefers redheads, either — he gives the one Australorp
pullet we saved back from last spring’s hatch just as much attention,
while ignoring her mother and aunts.




Only time will tell
whether this year’s rooster will survive the
spring rush
of hormones
or
whether he’ll get ornery and end up in the pot like his dad.



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Maximizing the nutrition from your pasture

Milk goat rationOne of the trickiest parts of
raising animals on pasture is trying to minimize your dependence on
purchased feed.  Granted, with non-ruminants like chickens and
pigs, a traditional pasture of grasses and legumes can only provide a
portion of the animals’ diets, but I still enjoyed
Small-Scale
Livestock Farming
‘s
explanation of how to maximize the value of your pasture by
understanding the biology of both pasture and animal.




The first factor to
understand is that working animals need more food at certain times of
the year.  Maintenance rations are the baseline for an animal who
is all grown up and not producing eggs or milk.  Farmers need to
add supplemental nutrition on top of the maintenance ration when
animals are expending extra energy growing, nursing, or laying. 
For livestock other than pigs and poultry, the maintenance ration can
usually be hay and/or grass, but the supplemental feed is usually grain
for all of the above unless you time your grazing year very carefully.




Pasture growth through the yearIf you’re careful, you plan
your annual cycle so your livestock only need maintenance rations when
the grass is growing slowly, then they can enjoy excess forage when
they need supplemental rations.  Making a diagram like the one
shown here is a fun way of working out your annual schedule.  I
was planning three rounds of broilers, trying to make their feed needs
(red shapes) fit on top of the peak pasture growth (green blob). 
(As a side note, my current schedule matches this chart pretty well,
except that I raise our last round of broilers later than the chart
depicts so my chickens can eat up excess garden scraps, which peak in
late summer and early fall.)




Another factor to
consider is how high quality that pasture is, meaning
how much energy your animals get from every bite.  You’d think
that an
animal could just eat twice as much woody grass to meet their
nutritional needs, but the excess fiber slows down digestion, so
there’s usually not room in an animal’s stomach for additional
low-quality forage.  The result is that the animal actually eats
less pasture when quality is low,
and you’re forced to fill the slack with grain or other purchased feeds.



Forage quality

Time of year makes a big
difference in forage quality (with the first spring flush being the
Crabgrasshighest
quality), but so does species.  In the past, I’ve considered
growing warm season grasses to fill in the midsummer slump, but
Ekarius’s book explained why
our
chickens ignored the warm season grasses we do have
— warm season grasses
produce a thickened sheath to prevent drying out in
hot weather, which results in a higher fiber content in most cases, and
chickens can’t handle lots of fiber.  In contrast, cool season
grasses seem to lead the way in providing the most calories per pound
of leaves, while legumes (of course) are highest in protein.  The
table below sums up nutritional information for many of the common
pasture grasses and legumes:



Species % dry matter Protein (as %
of dry matter)
Fiber (as %
of dry matter)
Total
digestible nutrients (as % of dry matter)
Digestible
energy, Mcal/lb
Alfalfa 21 20.0 23 57-61 1.01-1.22
Bermuda grass 34 12.0 26 50-60 0.82-1.32
Bird’s-foot trefoil 24 21.0 25 63-66 0.99-1.1
Bluegrass 31 17.4 25 56-72 0.92-1.4
Brome 34 18.0 24 68-80 0.90-1.40
Clover, red 20 19.4 23 57-69 0.92-1.39
Clover, ladino 19 27.2 14 58-68 1.13-1.57
Fescue 28 22.1 21 70-73 0.79-1.24
Orchard grass 23 18.4 25 55-72 0.93-1.34
Redtop 29 11.6 27 60-65 0.84-1.24
Reed canary 23 17.0 24 47-75 0.91-1.10
Ryegrass, annual 25 14.5 24 50-60 0.79-1.24
Ryegrass, perennial 27 10.4 23 60-68 0.80-1.35
Sudan grass 18 16.8 23 63-70 0.83-1.40
Timothy 26 18.0 32 61-72 0.76-1.34
Vetch 22 20.8 28 55-57 0.91-1.1
Wheatgrass, crested 28 21.5 22 70-75 0.95-1.26



I know that was a lot of
in-depth information, but hopefully it’ll help you tweak your pasture
cycle to get the most out of the grass you have.  Good luck!



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your flock so you can focus on improving your pasture.