Breeding silkworms

Handful of silkworms

When the demand for mulberry
leaves
started to outstrip the supply, I not only began
freezing installments for my silkworm
taste test
, I also opted to toss a few tender morsels to our
broody
hen’s chicks
.  The chickens were so receptive that I
gave them a second helping, then a third…then started worrying
that I’d accidentally use up my silkworm breeding stock. 
Time to set aside 20 breeders to perpetuate the species.




If I’d been smart, I
would have taken away the
leaf covered in tiny silkworms
at the end of the
caterpillars’ first day of life, then kept the silkworms that
hatched the next day in a separate bin.  Since silkworms are
on a strict timeline, I don’t want to mix the two (or possibly
three) hatches in my breeding bin since, presumably, those
individuals a few days younger will pop out of their cocoons a few
days later and will miss the mating frenzy.



Sleeping silkworm

Luckily, an
understanding of silkworm biology helped make up for that
beginner’s oversight.  By selecting breeding stock from the
biggest silkworms on day 19, it was relatively easy to pick out
those that had molted for their fourth time from those who hadn’t
yet made the shift.  The latter were mostly preparing for
their molt by sitting still with their heads raised, like the
silkworm in the center of the photo above.  (This is a subtly
different posture from silkworms reaching up into the air for a
new leaf, distinguished by the “sleeping” caterpillars’
stillness.)  I tossed the biggest silkworms onto fresh
mulberry leaves in a smaller bin, waited a few minutes for them to
settle in, then took out all the ones who were sitting still
instead of gnawing on new leaves.



Silkworm breeding
bin
Now our breeding stock is safely segregated, so
I don’t have to worry about accidentally feeding our best
specimens to the chickens.  The next step is to add
structures for them to spin cocoons inside, then all will be
still until the hatch.



Our chicken waterer is the POOP-free
solution to a filthy homestead problem.

Trying to move a mother hen

Chicken in the
garden

I thought I was so
lucky to get bonus chicks when
a
missing hen turned up with eight babies in the barn
, but this has actually
turned out to be one of our most traumatic hatches ever. 
When I posted last,
one
chick had been eaten by a snake
and I was pondering whether to try to move
the hen to a safer location.  A few days later, the hen
stopped my vacillation in its tracks when she decided to move the
chicks herself.  (There were only six chicks left by that
point, which may be what spurred the move.)




Unfortunately, this
mother hen seems to have no instinct for what is a safe spot to
raise her offspring.  Her new location was under a few pieces
of plastic trellis leaned against the outside of the barn. 
That seemed so patently unsafe that Mark and I decided it was time
to move them ourselves.




Easier said than
done!  Grabbing the hen was simple once she settled down for
the evening, but the chicks exploded out in all directions. 
Trying to catch six mouse-sized chicks in the barn proved
impossible, so we had to let the hen go to gather them back up
herself.



Moving the chicken
tractor

Then things got
worse.  The hen lost three babies overnight, leaving her with
only three, and she also decided it was time to take them out for
strolls into the garden to peck at my ripe strawberries.  Bad
chickens!  Mark helped me move one of our old chicken
tractors close to the barn, and I easily tricked the hen and
chicks inside.  (Silkworms
make great training tools — after just three feedings, the hen
now comes when I call.)  However, she hated being cooped up
so much that she battered her way back out after I closed the
door, and the chicks followed.




It seems that each
broody hen we’ve dealt with so far has had a major weakness. 
Our cochin
was not only mean, she couldn’t seem to incubate the eggs very
well so we only got a single chick.  This marans
is kinder and did a great job hatching her eggs, but she can’t
seem to keep them alive and won’t stay within bounds where we can
take care of chick safety.  Suddenly, the tried-and-true
incubator
is looking better and better.



A chicken waterer in the tractor
helped tempt the hen and her babies in the first time.

Pros and cons of a starplate chicken coop

Starplate building

Our starplate chicken
coop is currently about a third to halfway completed, so I thought
I’d sum up my thoughts on this first phase of the construction
process.  As you’ll recall, I was looking for
several
functional features in our newest chicken coop
, and Mark
really wanted to build something that would look
aesthetically-pleasing in the landscape
.  Is the starplate
system the best solution?


Starplate frame

Ease
of building

Having taught myself to build using conventional methods the hard
way (the internet combined with lots of trial and error), I have
to admit that the starplate system is easier to figure out…if
you’ve never built anything before.  However, if you already
know a bit about building (as we now do), the starplate system is
annoying because you have to learn a new method, which is just as
un-intuitive as the more mainstream way was at first.  If you
don’t know how to build in either manner, though, I suspect the
starplate system would be easier to pick up.  Plus, we
discovered you can build a starplate coop flat on a sloped
hillside without leveling the ground first, a method that would be
extremely difficult with a stick-built coop.  So this one is
a tossup, leaning toward the starplate as a winner.


Overlapped wall

Cost.  The starplate
system definitely costs more.  Sure, the structural integrity
of the triangles means you use less framing lumber, but I’m pretty
sure you use more of just about everything else, and you have to
cut it all at an angle too.  Plus, you end up adding extra
framing pieces back into the middle of the triangles to match up
the cut ends when filling in every other wall (unless you take out
one piece and overlap the rest, as is shown in the photo
above).  Total cost for the framing lumber and the wall
in-fill materials has been $534.43, the kit cost $117.99, and
we’ve yet to figure out the roof.


Starplate coop

Aesthetics.  Here, the
starplate system is a definite winner.  At each stage of the
building process, our new coop has looked so pretty, I’d peer out
the window just to take it in.  I can hardly wait to see it
in all its finished glory.




If you want to read
the step-by-step building process, check out Mark’s posts on the
subject:

  • Framing,
    day 1
  • Finishing
    the frame
    .  My additional tips: If you’re going to
    use one of the optional modifications that allow you to create a
    barn door on the front, you’ll need to brace those corners until
    you get the frame all the way together.  Also, the
    directions don’t tell you whether to start with the roof or the
    walls — start with the walls.
  • Filling
    in the walls
    .  My additional tips: The best way to do
    this seems to be starting at the bottom of one wall, then
    carefully lining up each board so you can get it centered on
    that wall.  Then it’s easy to draw a line on each end of
    the board to mark what to cut off.  The more precisely you
    center the boards, the easier it will be to cobble the end
    pieces back together to make the next wall.  A much easier
    method would have been to follow the instructions and cut each
    wall out of plywood, but it’s tough to get 8-foot sheets of
    plywood into our farm, so we went for the boards instead.
  • Continuing
    with the walls
  • Trouble
    matching pieces

Stay tuned to our homesteading blog for day-to-day updates,
and I’ll post another sum-up here when we’ve made some more
progress.



We’re planning a
rain-barrel-filled
chicken waterer for this coop so the
flock will be extremely low maintenance.