Silkworm final week observations

As usual, I learned a
lot about
silkworm management over the past
week, had some growing pains, but am still looking forward to
further observations.




Chicken taste test

Chicken taste test

I read one report
stating that chickens love silkworms up until they’re two inches long, but I
wanted to get a more solid idea of the preferred size.  So I
froze fourteen silkworms every other day for a couple of weeks,
thawed them all out, and waited to see what the chickens
thought.  The answer?  Yuck!  Both my flock and I
decided that thawed silkworms are pretty nasty, and we didn’t want
to touch them.




Luckily, I know that
chickens love silkworms because I’d given dozens to our broody hen
before the taste test.  However, I still don’t know if
there’s a size at which silkworms become significantly less
palatable because
all silkworms are apparently
unpalatable when frozen and then thawed.  I’ll have to figure
this out during round two of our silkworm project.




Red mulberry leaves

Red mulberry

Ever since learning
that I’m experimenting with silkworms and that they’re voracious
eaters, one of my friends has been hunting down local mulberry
leaves for me.  It turns out he has two red mulberries right
along his driveway, and I took a few leaves home to see if our
silkworms liked them.  My caterpillars replied, “Yum!”



Partially-defoliated
mulberry

It was good to have a
supplemental source of mulberry leaves during our caterpillars’
last week because our primary tree is looking pretty bare, as you
can see above.  Although I didn’t provide red mulberry and
Illinois everbearing mulberry leaves side
by side
, the speed with which our silkworms moved onto the
former suggests that they liked them at least as well as the
latter.  Red mulberry leaves are much larger and much more
tender than Illinois everbearing leaves at maturity, which makes
the species a good choice for silkworms.  Red mulberries are
also easy to grow from seed and are well-suited to our climate, so
I’ll definitely be planting some soon.




Cocoon-spinning

Silkworm beginning to
spin a cocoon

According to the book
I read, silkworms are supposed to spin their cocoons at about 25 or 26 days old

However, I learned the hard way that the short time frame is only
relevant if you never let your silkworms go without fresh
leaves.  In the real world of backyard silkworm culture, they
will take considerably longer to mature, depending on how well you
care for them.  And, yes, some will die — I lost a few of
my breeders
in their last week when they started to get a yellow cast, then
just keeled over.  (Hopefully we’ve got enough left that we
won’t end up with a genetic bottleneck.)



Anyway, our first
silkworm began to spin on day 35, with others slowly joining the
club over the next three or four days.  I’d read that you
need to add either the bottoms of egg cartons, toilet-paper rolls
cut in half, or sticks for the silkworms to spin into, and we
chose the first because we’re chicken-keepers and always have egg
cartons on hand.  I assumed our silkworms would spin in the
egg cups, and a few did, but most seemed to prefer the darker
crevices underneath the carton.  Those who did spin in the
cups chose ones covered by mulberry leaves.

When a silkworm
begins to spin its cocoon, it seems to just be wandering aimlessly
in circles.  After a couple of hours, a transparent cocoon
begins to form, like the one shown in the first photo in this
section.  The silkworm keeps layering on more silk into the
inside of the cocoon until it has finally formed a solid white
structure like the one shown below.  (The black dots are
frass, aka poop, from other silkworms who passed by while the
cocoon-building was in progress.)  I took the short video
above so you can get a better idea of what it looks like when a
silkworm is partially through the cocoon-spinning process.


Silkworm cocoon



Final thoughts

My initial reaction is that is a
fair amount of work to do for 100 chicken feeder worm
s,”
one of our readers commented on a previous post.  On the
one hand, I think he’s right — I definitely put more work into
our silkworms than the output merited.  I figure it took
about five to ten minutes a day to care for our 300 silkworms, and
even if every one had survived, that wouldn’t have been a huge
amount of chicken feed for my 4.3 hour effort.

On the other hand, I think silkworm culture has potential if we
streamline the operation and have more mulberries close at
hand.  (Also, if you have kids or other free or cheap labor,
silkworms look much better.)  Mark will be putting on his
inventing cap about ways to make silkworm culture easier during
our next iteration of the experiment, so stay tuned.

Our chicken waterer is
Mark’s solution to a filthy backyard problem.

Older broilers make trouble

Holding rooster

We usually kill our
heirloom broilers at 12 weeks, but this year our first batch went
ten days longer because I had family visiting and didn’t have time
to dispatch the broilers.  The experience proved that an
early dispatch date not only
lowers
feed cost per pound of meat
, it also keeps the tranquility on the farm
high.  For their last week of life, our cockerels made a
constant ruckus, not only crowing in the morning, but also chasing
our pullets far to frequently and beating up the younger batch of
broilers I had consolidated into the flock.  I was very glad
to see the three spare roosters go!




White pullet

You’ll notice,
though, that I only mentioned the spare roosters, not the spare
hens.  We’ve decided to increase our layer flock so we’ll
definitely get off the storebought-egg bandwagon come fall. 
So I was thrilled to discover that, of the seventeen chicks that
hatched early this spring, thirteen were girls!  (Or perhaps
the six
I
traded away

were boys, even though I was trying to select for pullets
there?)  Anyway, a baker’s dozen young hens should have us
swimming in eggs this winter, which is a good thing since we seem
to eat more eggs every year as our enhanced
pasturing system
makes them taste better and better.



Tying chicken legs

We did make one
positive change to our broiler production this year, though. 
We’ve been using a rubber band around broilers’ feet during the
kill stage ever since we started, and the band is always tricky
and sometimes fails.  Mark decided to see how a simple length
of rope knotted around the legs would work, and it turned out to
be more effective and easier.  Farewell, rubber bands!



Our chicken waterer makes it easy to
raise lots of broilers without spending hours cleaning out
filthy waterers.

Choosing a rooster

CockerelOur current
rooster
is the
best one we’ve ever had.  He didn’t succumb to spring
hormones and start chasing
me
, he doesn’t
overmate
his hens
, but
he does get the job done.  I originally chose him on the
basis of intelligence — he was often the first to figure out the
pophole when moving to a new pasture — and he’s definitely lived
up to that potential for aiding in pasture rotation.  Yet,
while I’d like to keep 2012/2013 Rooster forever, we’ll need a
virile young cock to ensure our eggs hatch next year, so one of
his sons is slated to become the flock’s patriarch this
fall.  But who?




I suspect that most
people simply pick their prettiest rooster, but I’m well aware
that a rooster is going to provide 50% of the genetic material for
next year’s flock.  Plus, his behavior will determine whether
predators eat our hens and whether I’m afraid to walk into the
pasture.  So it seems worth thinking a bit harder about which
cockerel to keep.



Hybrid rooster

Two of our young
cockerels are currently harassing our pullets to the point they’re
afraid to hang out with the flock — those guys are definitely
going in the pot.  At the other extreme, the rooster pictured
above seems to play well with others, and his mother was clearly a
Rhode Island Red hen (a breed that produces the best layers in our
flock).  I want to work harder to increase the laying
abilities of our chickens, so I suspect this speckled rooster
might be a good choice for our keeper.




Plus, he’s the
prettiest cockerel by far….



Our chicken waterer is perfect for
roosters, hens, and chicks of all ages.